Visual difference in 302 vs 347?

How do these prices look? Found a good machine shop that was very local to me.

http://www.whiteperformance.com/White_Performance_and_Machine_Labor_Prices.html

 

Only was able to do a few small things here and there.




Found these at the bottom of the oil pan:

 

Considering I already have the RPM Performer intake, a 600 Holley, and headers what if I just kept what I have and upgraded to roller rockers? That's with rebuilding this current block. Also depending on those heads. Hopefully the work that has been done to them is matching. It does seem like a bad picture, or they were dirty. I'll check them again in a few days.

 

Going back and looking at those heads again, Groberts was right. They're trashed from the sloppy grinding done on the chambers. You could start with the shortblock and replace the heads, cam and timing set (the one in that pic is not something you want to keep, the chain will stretch in no time) The only problem with going this route is breaking in and running a flat tappet cam, they've got poor track records in the past ten years for failures. So much easier to start fresh with a roller shortblock, there's zero chance for cam failures. And getting a good serviceable shortblock is easy out of the Junkyard. One that can be run as is in many cases, with only a good cleaning. Or at most just need honing, reringing and replacing the bearings on the crank. Going this route may even cost you less money in the long run than taking a chance with what you've got now.

 

Did you look for the oversize stampings on the piston tops ? Pretty sure the crank will have been turned as well, it looks fresh. Pull the bearing caps and see what the bearings and journals look like. Just make sure you put everything back exactly as you found it.

 

No, I haven't had a chance to take a look at them fully yet. It's been a busy weekend. I may get the time tomorrow if I don't have to work a double shift. Hey, what do you think of this price for these heads? Good deal? Already checked, and rebuilt. From the reviews I've read, it is a really respectable company.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/REBUILT-302...314&pid=100011&prg=1005&rk=1&sd=350511579112&

 

I had forgotten about this pic. Maybe it could help this discussion:

 

Hard to tell using a tape measure, but looks like it could be .060 over.(4-1/16") The oversize is clearly stamped into all 8 piston tops.

 

Just me but I'd look for the GT40 heads. The P heads have issues with header selection due to their different plug angles.

 

The tape is measuring the head gasket which are generally 4.100"... You really need something more precise to measure block bore, I suppose 4" and a .030 feeler gauge would give you a idea..

 

All that's needed is to clean one piston top. If they're oversize, then the oversize will be plain as day to see. If they're ogiginal std pistons, there will be nothing stamped. If they're replacement std bore, then they'll have "STD" stamped into them.

 

Ahh, okay! If I get a few spare minutes tomorrow I'll clean one up and have a look. Very helpful.

 

Oh, yeah. That was the only pic I had of some form of measurement reference.

 

They are standard. Took them out a few days ago. Says "302" on the side of them. I've also took the crank out as well. It is a 2MA and has been shaved .020 under according to the Clevite bearings. (Which were worn out)

I'm taking the block to be checked for cracks tomorrow. If all checks out, it is getting cleaned up, .020 off the deck at least, .030 over on the bore, new cam bearings, and freeze plugs as well. Got a quote to have all that done for around $515. $300 cheaper than my last quote and 40 miles closer. Both shops are very knowledgeable and have built thousands of performance engines, and race every weekend.

 

Strange that the crank is that clean but the bearings are worn out. Go figure. But I have run across std bore 302's that had undersized cranks from the factory. Had a .010 under come out of one I picked up last year.