scoop, this is the mav sight not the school counselor board Ive been running the pertronix conversion with no issue for a while, but i have yet to see how it will be with the new cam and heads and such im installing right now.
I know I can't spell! What is bad is that I tried a dozen different spellings for that stupid word while I was composing my post... And that was the best I could come up with! Oh well, my maker sees fit to humble me frequently to keep me in line. Dave
Nah...you spelled it right...I was just ridin' ya Things just seemed to be getting a little "serious" and I wanted to derail you all. Regardless. Very good points and information. Er..."points", pun was NOT intended.
do you have heavy duty " high rpm" points in that distrib? stock points can start to bounce anywhere over 5000 rpm. hi rpm have heavier springs to rev higher. problem is the heavier spring wears the cam follower on the points faster, changing the point gap. closes it. now coil doesnt get enough rise time and puts out weaker spark. back in the old days, pre electronics, i had to constantly check point gaps so the engine would rev properly. also,you might try gapping the plugs at .028-.032 and see what happens to the slight miss. easier to spark across a smaller gap, less resistance.
The points are whatever came with the O'Reilly replacement distributor. On my stock distributor, the "wings" that fly out with higher rpms froze up and I just replaced with stock. This was back when I was just keeping it running, and not doing "improvements" on it. Otherwise, I would have gotten something better.
you probably should just get rid of the points instead of playing, but accel has hi rpm points if you want to play. still drop the plug gap; i wouldnt try more than .032-.035 on a stock ignition system. and thats for normal driving. to get reliable performance in the old days, .028 was the plug gap if you twisted the motor over 5000.
Installed a 30psi "Low Pressure Acetyene" guage at the little vents just in front of the windshield wipers. Ran the fuel line up to the shock tower on driver side, put in a brass T, ran 3/8" tube to the guage, and the remainder to the carb from behind the intake and to the other shock tower. Kinda "temporary" being held together with wire ties. As soon as I got it started, and verified that the guage works, and that there were no fuel leaks, it started to rain. So I will have to wait until the cold front blows through and takes the rain with it. At idle and revving in the garage, holds a pretty steady 6 psi (right where it is supposed to be). We will see when I get it on the road. I still think it is an electronics issue. But this would be a good test to finally convince me that the mechanical pump is working correctly.
Scoop- Just remember, in your quest here it seems that you are either looking for higher RPM's OR consistent acceleration all the way to your redline. Keep in mind that if you go with a bigger cam (lift and/or duration) you are going to push the curve northward likely causing slower acceleration from a dead start unless you are using a stall to leave at higher revs. My cam specs as far as lift are similar to yours-.470/.474(dual pattern) but my duration is 280/290. It is more sluggish than I wanted off the line, BUT I have not changed the stock rear gear yet. It wakes up from about 2200 and pulls hard above 3500 all the way to 6500-my max so far. I am likely limited by my regular Performer intake on top end even with the 1970 model 351W heads with 1.94/1.6 Fereas. Just thought I would mention that when you gain in one area you will likely lose elsewhere. Seth
I am amazed that you get 6500 out of a Performer intake. I never got mine above 5500, but then i never pushed it that hard, afraid I would throw a rod. But it quit accelerating with any power over 5000. Now that I say, that, I had problems at 5000 even with the old heads and intake. Maybe it really IS my electronic system maxing me out. That is all that has stayed the same, and the 5000 ceiling is still there. But I now get to 5000 in 1/3 the time. I did put on a fuel pressure guage, and I drop from 6 to 5, sometimes a second at 4 at take off only. but it quickly jumps back up to 6 and stays there for the entire ride. So the mechanical pump is sufficient.
