Correct. I'll re-state my situation. My worst-case load requirements are 90-couple amps, I needed to meet that at idle, hence my 150-amp 3G. So that means I could drop the ammeter wire size from 4 AWG down to 6 AWG. Bottom line, it's still a whole lot easier to just run a piece of 16 AWG to a volt meter.
amp meters are a thing of the past, just a headache waiting to happen, IMHO first off your running un fused high amp wires straight under your dash (what happens when it shorts out? it burns your baby to the ground!) i guess you could fuse it but what happens when you get home at night and turn your car off you got your lights on 25amps you got your electric radiator cooling fans running 30amps (if you have them, i do.), radio kickin 10amps or so, got your foot on the brake another 5 amps and the list goes on, 70 amps or so at any one time maybe more, all with engine off. just saying your putting a lot of faith in your harbor freight amp gauge. And even the best parts fail sometimes. at some point in time we have all run a lot of current right off the battery. whether its because the engine died or you just like to crank up the radio and jam out without burning up all your gas. my
My first Maverick quit running, burnt out the alternator, nearly caught on fire and left me stranded on the side of the road 50 miles from home while I was driving down the interstate at 70 mph due to an amp gauge that shorted out internally. Never again... I'll stick with my volts gauge that has a nice little fuse on it.
