"Can somone double check me on my wiring I posted above concerning the alternator?" B+ wire= should be going to the battery side of the starter solenoid with an inline 175 megafuse. (That is correct). A Wire= should go to the same battery side of the starter solenoid (Correct. This is the battery voltage sense lead. This wire was also originally tied to the wire that feeds power to the lights on the car). S wire= loops back to a plug back into the alternator. (Correct. It's the Stator common). I wire= not sure where this one is suppose to go with the old regulator being removed????? I believe the old I terminal wire when the old regulator is removed." (Correct. It terminates to the wire that was on the "I" on the factory voltage regulator. The "I" terminal is what feeds positve voltage to one side of the alternator light, which turns the light off when the charging circuit is working, because the other side of the alt light has the positive voltage coming from the ignition on switch, and they cancel each other out. ) ---------------------------------
Thanks thats the first thing I was thinking, but I have verified a few times already that it is working properly. Thanks for reply though
Thanks Roger, I will get a chance to look at it again tonight after work and report my findings. Thanks again
Well I got a chance to look at it for a little bit last night, wired in the alternator and discarded the factory voltage regulator. Still has same problem, I ran out of light to do any more real trouble shooting so hopefully Saturday morning I will get back at it
Here's a pic that says it all. Not sure if the cluster needs to come out or it's reachable from below... Added: Battery disconnected, key must be in the "lock" position (key out of switch) and use a 3/32" drill bit.
I forgot to mention that earlier, I took mine apart looks exactly like your picture but there is NO alignment hole on the column! Has the alignment hole on the switch in same position but I swear there is no allignment hole drilled on the column itself
Well thanks guys for the help its good to go now! It ended up being a combination of 2 things, one old wires and me being half blind LT BLUE and LT GREEN look very close to the same color. I stripped the tape back a little further a behold I was trying to use the I terminal wire most the time . Second part of the problem when I deleted the column shifter I somehow ended up putting the Neutral safety switch into the drive position. So I re clocked the neutral safety to the park position, and switched my wiring on S and I and it operates just as it should. Very good eavening working on the car! I was also able to verify fuel pump operation, and verify spark to the plug wires! I have one fuel leak that needs tending to and should be test firing it Saturday morning for the first time since 2004! Thanks again guys!
Another example of "the problem is usually caused by the last person to fix it". You have a whole week to get it ready for Central. You just might make it.
OR Another example of stop trying to rush to get something done, thats when mistakes happen LOL I wish I only had the car to worry about, way to many things still on the plate to dedicate the whole week to just working on the car. I pretty much have Saturday t work on it thats about it. If it goes to central it will be on the trailer, and prob not cruise the strip just park and unload. We will see how Saturday goes
Well having a whole saturday to work on it is more than i get. Guess its a good thing i don't need to do anything to it. I could never build a car on my schedule now days.
I know I got the same problem life was so much simplier 10 years ago. I used to have all weekend, and all night after work working on the cars eating dinner off the hood.................... Man them were the days, but I guess thats why we grow up. Now I look forward to retiring and drag racing on the weekends and golfing during the week. LOL
I have a question I have a 74 maverick 250 i6, where does the red/green wire, orange wire go? I also have a brown wire
