Sits way too high...

My car is factory v8 w/ AC, but with the new motor I removed the AC, front bumper/brackets, and replaced intake with aluminum one. So lost a lot of weight up front. That's what's causing it to be that height, they are the factory springs.

 

Should only have to take the shocks out and leave the rest of suspension together just compress the spring and take out.take a coil off for now get realianed and drive awhile springs will settle alittle bit after awhile but you will probably have to take off more than that to get it to set right.

 

I will probably drive it a bit as is, and during December I'll take the time to cut it. Wish I could do it sooner just don't have the time.

 

Is this the springs you are talking about? They keep coming up as moog springs. http://www.amazon.com/Moog-8088-Suspension-Coil-Spring/dp/B0053RXO94

 

Those should be the ones(see now they aren't listed as fitting), I believe 8088 is a industry number... I got mine from a friend who just happen to have a new set in box...

I've seem a chart that listed different numbers and weight springs for Mav, don't remember where though...

Ahh here it is, courtesy Jeff...

http://www.1bad6t.com/Maverick/repair/coilsprings.html

 

Assuming that those are stock v8 springs.. you would be better off to cut them a coil or more than to fool around with cutting 6 cyl springs. Although I have to say off memory(been years since I looked at spec's) that the differences between those 6 and v8 springs aren't as large as some might think with the major difference being free height, which then obviously affects the final installed height. Maybe someone has spec's available to help you "see the differences"?

Bigger issues start to come into the picture when springs are cut because the spring rate goes up while the load bearing capacity goes DOWN with fewer coils left to do the same job. This of course results in less stored energy being made available during sudden rebounds which makes the wheel and tire lose contact over sudden and/or heavy grade changes(fast road rises, speed bumps, potholes, whatever you hit, however aggressively you decide to drive it.

If you're just cruising around and trying to look cool while you're parked?.. by all means(accept for use of a torch).. cut away a full coil and be done with it. Based on your tire sizing and rear stance height, I myself would go towards 1 1/8 coils to get a slightly more pronounced forward rake and helping to adequately insure that I wouldn't have to do it all over again because I missed the mark.

Just be aware that lowering cars in this manner(cutting stock replacement springs) tends to make them lift the rears and want to come around in hard braking corners. And this is noticeably harder than these old Fords are already known for in the first place. Don't know bout' everyone else.. but I drive the tires off my cars getting up to speed AND going around corners. I was once too naive and often broke at times but have learned some hard lessons with many old Fords through the years. Main observation revolves around safety at speed and during.. oh, let's just call them "evasive maneuvers". I would never even dream about doing a mod like this without a rear sway bar. It adds much more than just sway/roll control, the bar keeps the tail down and limits weight transferring off the rear tires during heavy braking induced dive(cut springs cause increased dive AND sway). Especially useful advantage when going into a hard corner a bit too fast or maybe having to avoid that other guy on the road who somehow thinks your car has a bulls-eye on it.

My plan and recommendation is to pick a shorter/stiffer aftermarket performance spring spec'd for an old Ford with similar suspension design. Mustang or any other similar weighted pony sport springs will bolt right in and have all these attributes designed in right from the start. Won't guarantee that ride height will be perfect first time around.. but you're starting from a vastly superior baseline to start modding off of to get where you want to be. Look for around 450-550 lb max spring rates if you want to maintain ride quality vs all-out fun. Another route is to move towards a progressive rate spring that has coils spaced differently in each spring so you get the best of both worlds.. smooth compliant ride during light driving.. and then progressively increasing towards the performance driving capabilities of a sport spring when you want or need it to. Only issue with those designs is that you can't cut too much off before they quickly lose much of their progressive nature as the wider spaced top coils are lopped off.

Tight on time.. hope that helps.

 

Wow, that's pretty extreme. It looks like the engine was taken out. I'd cut at least 1-1/2 coils. Springs must first be removed with spring compressor. **Use caution** As high as that car sits, cutting 1 coil will not be enough and after all the work of putting them back in, you'll have to tear it all back apart again. Die grinder works best. A sawz-all with a metal blade would also work.

Also, people like to loosely throw around the term "6-cylinder springs" but neglect to specify what size 6-cylinder. There is no difference between 250 I-6 springs and 302 V-8 springs. The 170 and 200 I-6 springs would be softer.

 

Hi Will:
Sounds like a plan .. We're in the Deland Airport complex just off SR 92 .. Lemmeno when you're in the area and
I'll make sure I'm in.. sometimes I go out on field estimates and it takes up most of the day. I'd like to see
your car . We should have a couple cars around the shop at any given time. In the meantime,
I hope everything works out like you want.
Chip

 

I think I will try as crazy comet suggested and try the 8088 springs. Luckily they aren't too expensive and it seems to give a nice height. If that doesn't work...cutting wheel it is!!

 

The 8088 springs I mentioned are half coil shorter than my orig V8 springs... Coil diameter seemed to be same, but apparently spring rates are different... The coils on stock 200 6cyl springs in my '71 parts car are slightly smaller than the V8 spring, no idea on length as I've not removed one...

BTW remember mine are TRW, dunno if there are differences when compared to Moog, etc...

 

Well if they work and it gives the right height then works for me. You haven't had any problems with them? This is a driver, not a racer by any means.

 

No problem with bottoming out and fit fine.... I have maybe 500 miles on them, that includes several hard stops to help with settling...

After 5.0 swap, this was stance with original springs...

 

I have Moog 8306 springs on my car, it sits approx. the same height as Tom's Comet. Like you my car is a driver, ride quality nice, handling acceptable for a stock setup. They been on the car for 5+ yrs and no mods made to them; several road trips - no issues.
Moog has a chart w/ their springs spec's on their site as I recall -- might be a gud idea to check it out. I am very satisfied w/ my units. Gud luck w/ whatever the decision.

 

Just wanted to give an update, the moog 8088 springs are most likely stiffer than the trw springs. The car still sat way to high, this was after several hard breaking and some "evasive maneuvering". So I pulled the springs again and took 1 1/8 coil out of the original springs. The car sits MUCH better, probably should have gone 1 1/4 coil but it's good for now. Thank you every one for the great advice and tips! I will eventually get some nicer springs for a better stance!

 

Yep. I told you 1 coil wouldn't be enough. It looks a lot better in that picture. Good job.