Hi All, I'm building a new 9" center section and have mixed inputs on how to set the clutch preload. I don't have the Ford tool that's used to measure for shims (but I do have the dimensions needed to make it). Even then, the Ford book says 45# break away torque. I bought the parts from Quick Performance and they're telling me they build them to 250# break away torque. I've had this thing together and apart about 15 times now trying to get a happy medium. As far as I'm concerned, the tighter the better, but I don't want any breakage. Any input? No hurry, I'll be out of commission for a while with a torn rotator cuff... TIA!
i always build mine by feel. i will add shim them assemble the carrier and try turning the carrier while its on solid mounted axle stub. i find the point where i can turn it with very little effort but any more shim and i cant turn it by hand. then i add .010 shim. that seems to work best for a street car. if you want it tighter you can add another .005 - 0.010. the problem with trac locks is they have a tendency to blow out the half of the carrier the contains the clutches. i recommend for performance applications choosing an aftermarket carrier. even the aftermarket tracloc clones usually have a billet case half to prevent the blow out.
I watched the Tom's Diff vids on Youtube and that's how he was doing it, although it was a Chevy 12-bolt. In effect, that's how I did mine the last time before my shoulder gave out. I do have the billet case assembly too, my stocker was machined so deep you could see daylight between the ring bolt recesses and the plate tab pockets! Thanks!
