First - open your carb up and see what jets it is running. High altitude jets are smaller than normal and two or three steps up in size is what is needed to run properly at normal altitudes. After you have the information get a rebuild kit or at least a new power valve and the jets and install them. Adjust your accelerator pump linkage and then reassemble the carb. Adjust idle speed to spec and mixture for the highest RPM attainable and reset your idle speed. The rich mixture may be a result of a blown power valve - the 2400 is like the Holley's in that any pop back through the carb can blow the power valve. Replacing it is easy and a sure fix. What causes a carb to "backfire" through the carb is a lean mixture - the jets should cure that. Adjust the choke to the position of 3 marks to the rich side. This will eliminate the possiblity of lean backfire when the car is cold. Running rich at cruise is probably due to the blown power valve leaking fuel into the PVCR at cruise - or sucking it through the vacuum passage. It might also be because with lean jetting you have to press a lot further on the accelerator to get any power - that opens the power valve and drastically richens the mixture. Either way the steps layed out in the mods above will fix it. Oh! take one of the jets with you when you go to get new ones - Ford has two thread sizes and you will need to make sure you get the right ones - one size is the same as the Holley jets but the other is smaller and a bit harder to find. If you can't find a jet then let me know and I will tell you how to modify the ones you have. (I will need to know what size the jets are to figure the right drills to use) PaulS
Well, I replaced the accelerator pump diaphragm today and it fixed most of the problems. There is still a small stumble at idle, but I think that it is a result of bad timing. I'm going to set the timing tomorrow. Thanks for all the help. Jonathan
If you are going to kept the Maverick, step it up to Pertronix PMX-1281 "never change point again"! this will replace your factory point and then as go you can run there plug wires ,coil, and cap and rotor. Then you can solve your cab issue. First check it for loose throttle plates,with the carb mounted and bolts tight, grab the throttle arm at the carb and try and move it up and down, if you feel some movement it time to re-place the carb. If that check out OK, grab yourself a vacuum gage and plug it into the port were your vacuum advance from your distributor plugs into. Start the car and let it warm up, I like to have the engine warmed up before I do this. If the engine wants to die, turn your idle screw up to were it won;t die.with the chock plate fuly open adjust the air mixture screws till you get the highest vacuum reading, should be 17-20 lbs for a good running engine, then re-adjust your idle screw if needed. I can't rember if you have one or 2 air mixture screws.If you have 2 jut re-peat the steps. As far as timming, I like it on the high side just so it won't ping when step down all the way to the floor with the go pedal. Star out with the vac line disconnected and the carb port plug try 12 deg, re-plug the vac line into carb and adjust the ilde if needed.
