I just took the mav for a quick run down some country roads. When I hit somewhere around 90mph, I get a "shimmy", but not a side to side shimmy like I would expect from out-of-balance tires. This is an up-and-down shimmy. When I look through the rear view mirror, the image is vibrating up and down. I recently put in 3.80 gears with a mini-spool, so I have seldom hit 4000 rpms while driving. Is the shimmy the out-of-balance (mostly) stock motor, or is it the drive shaft? I also removed the drive shaft a couple months back, and did not mark it for reassembly. Just stuck it back in wherever it was.
i try to ...mark...anything i take apart. most of the time it doesn't matter but i have taken stuff apart that needed to be reassy. the way it came apart.it only takes a sec. to mark it...frank...
Marking everything including floating rotors and drums is something I have done for some time now. As mentioned before I used to work at Pep Boys and they offered a free brake inspection and I have discovered that the people who were complaining of the brakes feeling like they were pulsating after the FREE brake check were the ones that were not marked. Now they didn't always complain, but when they did they were trying to get a free brake service or something for free. It is known that if you want free service, just complain and you just might get it. For these kind of senerous I have developed different ways to cover MY bass not only from the customer but from my employer as well. As far as trying to help figure out that shimmy,well,it could be a number of things,including tires out of ballance,out of round,air pressure,or maybe the driveshaft as you mentioned. The best diagnosis is the one where you take the car in to a reliable tech that you can get to meet personaly and speek to 1 2 1.(even if it's a PB,as long as it's free and you can watch, )(sorry so long)
I didn't have any problems until I replaced the u-joints, I'm going to yank it out, check the position, reinstall. If I have the same problem, I'm going to get the shaft balanced
Did you not have the problem, or did you not notice it? Hopefuly it's something simple. You might check on cost to ballance it anyway, I paid $40.00 about 8 yrs ago and I got it back sand blasted and painted. Hopefuly no broken needle bearings. Good luck!
Becareful with the U-bolts on the rear end side. It is very easy to over tighten them. If you put to much muscle on them you will toast your needle bearings. I think the nuts only get 12-15 ft pounds.
I think they are saying make sure it is in Phase think of it like a hinge on both ends if it is hinged up and down on the tranny should be hinged up and down on the rear end, in other words cant have one end hinged up down and the back right left. thats a very simplified anaolgy but that is what it means to be in phase.
Thanks for all the help folks! I undid the strap bolts and cleaned off the flange, in the process on of the side bearing caps came off and I lost all the needle bearings, I got a new bearing and switched the caps (same brand) then reattached the drive shaft and put the strap bolts on snugly (they WERE tight). I took it out and everything is smooth up to 60mph (can't get faster unless I got on the interstate). It appears everything is A.O.K.
Halebopp, please give more details on the phase link thingy. I think you confused Blugene. I KNOW you confused me, even though I understand the theory. What are the parts that need to be "in phase"?
i myself had vibration issues ... turns out beacuse i used an 85 mustang motor with the original 70 c-4 transmission it didint balance out because after 82 ford started using 50 ounce weght on the flywheel veruses the 20 or 28 ounce one i had .... i bought the 85 gt flywheel ground off the wieght welded it in the same spot my 28 ounce weight was and tada ...vibration is gone
