New2Maverick I would be interested in this option also. Do you know what body the breaks come off of? Chad
Update For starters I ordered the Standard bracket instead of metric. I am going to proceed with install anyway. The calipers are ones for a G20 van in the frt. Bigger and better I want all the stopping power I can. The metric uses a smaller lighter GM setup typical used on the frt of Monte CarlosRWD era and S10 pickups and Blazers. As mavericks need a little weight in the back The heavier pieces can only aid traction. They forgot to tap one of the hoses 7/16 24nf tap and I rechased all the other threads as they were not as smooth as they should have been. The brackets are sturdy. I had to clearance them a little bit to make the calipers go on. Stay tuned as time permits. I have decided the Jeep rotors will offer the best fit without all the hassles(thanks Robert Raney and oldguy). I am looking for a hose that will fit (short) if not I will have some made. I purchased the Banjo bolts(the bolt for the hose to caliper) already so as soon as a warm day arrives in this midwest hell I will proceed with the install. I will do a tech article with pics.
Even though the Ford 8.8-inch rearend is plenty strong, I don't like it because it uses 'C'-clips to retain the axels, just like Chevy 10 and 12-bolt models...
Volvo Swap rx7351w I am not sure. I drive my 74 four door to work every day so Monday on my lunch break I am going to see if I can find anything that looks like it will work. I will have an update Monday Evening. (PST)
1badmav: First of all, the G20 calipers will be fine as long as you aren't getting more stopping power in the back than the front. If you are, make sure you get an adjustable proportioning valve or you will be facing the guy behind you the first time you put on the brakes. As far as weight is concerned, unsprung weight is BAD and doesn't aid in traction. Other than that, looking forward to seeing the outcome!
I went to the shop today and mocked up the caliper ,rotors and pads on the brackets. I would not recommend the Standard GM III brakes get the metric bracket. Why??? Well the rotor (Jeep) is not wide enough once the pads get to low the pins will run out of sliding room and then pop out of caliper. I already ordered the metric brackets online at Daymotorsports.com. I believe the standard will still work and I will research this further with a differnt rotor. I have a few ideas but whatever rotor would more than likelyhave to be drilled for the ford lug pattern. I will keep ya posted. I am trying to keep this as simple and cheap as possible so the normal guy that does not have alot of tech skill or fab tools can do this himself for cheap. :bananaman Ps the standard would work but I would recommend changing pads at about 50% life with the jeep rotor. They recommend a 1.250 rotor width The metric suggests an.810 width perfect match for jeep Rotor. Metric weld on bracket part number is C-1150 Standard is c-1125 weld on. They offer bolt on versions as well for 29.99 a piece but would eliminate the need for a welder. I for one trust a welded bracket far more than a bolt on.
Not to mention the metric setup would be lighter as I was recently educated that unsprung weight is not good aid for traction. I should have known that too but brain fart DUHHH!!!
It's not a whole lot of unsprung weight, but every little bit counts I just wanted to point that out because i have to keep reminding myself!
Measurments I took some measurements of a 78 Volvo 740 at work today but I don't know what I am looking for. If someone around here could help me out a bit and tell me where I need to measure what I will do some more checking into using the rear disk brakes off of a vlovo for a conversion. There was also a guy in recently looking for a carrier assy with a higher ratio for his car. I don't know exactly what it was other than old ford. This guy said that he mounted the whole volvo rear end under his car with very minor adjustments that needed to be made to the hand brake brackets or something like that. So here is what I need, Let me know what I need to measure on the brakes and the rear end because I may be able to hook up some great deals for anyone who would be intrested in this swap. Sorry about long post just want to figure out if this will work real good. I know Volvo makes a really strong rear end.
I dont know if this is a typo but I dont think in 78 Volvo made a 740. In 78 i think they had the 240 and 260 series only. In 87 they should have made a 240, 740, 760 series. I dont know what to measure. Chad
UPDATE. If the weather permits I will install this stuff on Sunday. I already got all the stuff to do it. I was also thinking of a way to have a parking brake. I came up with this solution. Buy a shut off valve from wilwood(linelock) hit the pedal down then hit the line lock. Pressure will remain to the rear brakes since it cannot release itself until line lock is disengaged. The line Lock will also permit very smokey burnouts without ruining the rear brakes in the process. I will order this valve and an adjustable prop valve this weekend. I will mount the shut off valve by the drivers seat. Minor fabrication.
The line lock sounds like a good easy Idea. I wonder how long it will hold pressure? If you mount it near the seat are you going to lock the rear wheels? If so wouldnt that be the same as pushing the pedal, ingaging the rear brakes during the burn out?
To clarify. If I want the rear brakes to hold pressure I will HIt the BRakes then pull the lever. Pressure will hold until realeased. If I want to do a burn out I will pull the lever before I hit the brakes so no pressure gets to the rear brakes and they can not be engaged until I release the lever. If I need an emergency brake I will drag my feet on the ground PS by the way They are no longer called emergency brakes. Parking brake!!!!! They changed that so it did not instill confidence in the driver they could use the parking brake to stop the car(legal BS)
