Wow, you've got the motor completely apart! If you are changing mains, I'd change rod bearings also. While you are at it check the timing chain, and if it is stock I'd replace it. As far as a cam I'd go with a mild hydraulic and forget about the solid lifters. If you do go with a solid cam you are going to have to put screw in studs or at the very least have the press in studs pinned...........this is pretty important. As long as you have the motor down this far I'd pull the pistons and see what it looks like..................if you are planning to upgrade this motor I'd want to know what I have before I go much further.................and I'd contact a cam manufacture to figure out what you really want and what parts you will need.....................I love Summit, but they just don't have the knowledge a cam manufacturer does.......IMHO
Well as things often go I just keep getting deeper and deeper into this project that started out as replacing a rear main seal. I'm debating pulling it completely apart as I am now pretty close anyhow. This is the first engine I have been into this deep, so it makes me a little nervouse pulling pistons. Are there any special tools required to re-install pistons? I know I can get it all apart it's just the putting it back together that I worry about.
Ford small block manual... MONEY... torque wrench and ring compressor...let the machine shop do the freeze plugs, cam bearings and pistons to rods...
I think 71gold put it in perspective, the first thing is how much money do you want to spend?????? There are actually a number of different ways to rebuild a motor, the right way(which requires money and a machine shop to clean, inspect, bore, line hone..........etc.,etc.), just pulling it apart and cleaning it, and putting new main and rod bearings(although a machine shop should measure the crank and rods with a micrometer to see what you have[how much wear so you can either get std. bearings or have the crank turned], and then maybe resize the rods and put in some good rod bolts) and then you put it back together.......................or you could just look for a newer motor and not worry about rebuilding the old one.............................it all just boils down to what you want the motor to do and how much $$$$ you want to spend. For me building a motor is very personal and something I really enjoy. There is just nothing that compares to building a motor and putting it on a dyno to see if you did everything correct and if you picked the right parts, of course 71Gold is a street/daily driver guy................and I am a drag racer, so our opinions do differ just a little, but the old saying goes, "How much HP do you want to make depends on how much $$$$ you are willing to spend"...............................if you tear the motor apart just go slow and ask lots of questions, everyone here on the forum will help........although you may get slightly different answers..........just pick the one that's right for you and go for it.................you don't learn anything unless you try..................IMHO
Well if 71gold can take care of the money I'll take care of the tools and manual. Seriously though I am trying to keep this project on a pretty tight budget, maybe $500ish. I am currently working on some Mopar projects, and if y'all know Mopars you know everything about them costs about triple what Fords cost. Anyhow I think I can get most parts used, ie, heads, and found a lunati cam and lifters on craigslist. Bearings are new by King. I'm really just trying to decide if I should leave pistons and crank alone and then upgrade or refresh everything else and put it back together or take it to machine shop to have the basics done. I'm really just wanting it to be a nice street motor for around town, quick off the line, 300 hp would be plenty for now. I did find some early 289 heads that are fresh, and from what I have read it would bump my compression ratio up a bit. Anyone have any real world numbers on c.r for a stock 73. 302 vs. 289 heads?
I think the 73 302 had about 8.5:1 compression, and just by going from the 63cc to 53cc should give you a little more than 9:1 compression, and buy using a steel head gasket with maybe .040 crush may get you to close to 9.5:1. Tomorrow put some oil in all of the cylinders and see how long it takes to leak past the rings. If the rings are any good you should be able to at least hold the oil over night..................
One of the sets of heads I'm looking are 66 289 heads. Here is an intersting link I found on compression ratios and head swaps. http://www.mustangii.net/headswapcompression.asp http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-SBF-FORD-Aluminum-Cylinder-Heads-190cc-289-302-351W-/390300487226?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5adfb8ce3a&vxp=mtr Or how about these pro comp heads, anybody using these with good results
The one single thing that wakes up a SBF is a set of good aftermarket heads. Now with that said, the rest of the motor has to be up to the added HP also...................and with the aftermarket heads you have blown way past your budget of $500. Now again, if it were me I'd pull the motor the rest of the way apart, replace the rings, rod bearings, main bearings and put a cam in it and I'd go with a hydraulic Isky or Comp unit...............get the aftermarket heads which should be ok for the cam and just go out and have fun, if you blow the motor you don't have much invested and as long as the valve train is good you can always transfer them to another motor..............IMHO
Pro-Comp heads are made in China..............there is a reason they are cheap, it's because they have the cheapest valves, springs, retainers and keepers you can buy.....................you would have to spend another $500 or so just to make them useable/reliable.................stick with Edelbrock, TrickFlow, or any other heads that are made in the good old USA.....................IMHO
These guys clam to have quality valve train components on their Pro Comps... http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-289-30...rs_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5642c
Why would you buy Chinese made product at $1200 for a pair when I can by AFR for $1300 a pair???????????
heres a price for afrs at summit and theyre the bigger chambers for $1500 and some change Im sure someone knows a cheaper place to get a SET (2) Im getting afrs on my engine. for the extra money you can worry a little less knowing theyre made in the US. from quality material and workmanship. not to mention youre supporting your country men/ women and contributing to our economy. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/afr-1420/overview/?PageSize=100&SortBy=None&SortOrder=Ascending
Ok, I was wrong and you were right.................. I really never noticed before, but the Pro-Comps have "freeze plugs", I wonder who's head they copied.............must have been a cast iron head to get freeze plugs:16suspect You only get what you pay for, and if you don't pay much you usually don't get much...............IMHO
