Good move. Sounds like you are giving it hell. Bummer you are on the wrong coast, I would offer my press. I wonder if a ball joint press would work for you: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Tools-Garage-and-Equipment/Ball-Joint-Press/_/N-264q
Bryant actually just mentioned that too me.I am going to call auto zone I already borrowed this socket from them.
I just checked my Ford Shop Manual, your MOOG K-8103 replacement bushing is suppose to go upwards, just like picture above. Then the large washer, nut and tighten 50-70 ft/lbs., then turn castle to line up with nearest slot/hole to insert the cotter pin.........sorry I could not reply sooner, as I just checked the techie thread...........
I borrowed a ball joint remover from auto zone I was able to get the bushing in further however once I was tightening it started bending in certain areas.Its already dark so Ill continue in the morning..Didnt know this idler arm was going to take me all day long Bent
It has been years since I last installed mine, but if I recall, I think the center link hole is slightly tapered, which would explain how much trouble you are having with the installation. Also, as you can see with the MOOG, having it installed upwards, the rubber bushing is then sandwich between the lip on the MOOG and large washer, then nut. Even though there is the steel sleeve with the serrated ends, when the nut is tightened down, it does compress the bushing slightly. When properly installed upwards, there is approx. 1/8" space between the center link and bottom of MOOG lip. As you probably now know, the lip is damaged and you may have to get another one. Depending on which puller you have, you may beable to remove the bushing, try straightening out the lip and reinstall it. In one of the earlier posts, using a heavy duty C- clamp may work. It is easier to install with the center link out, but then you would need tie-rod remover to separate them etc.........pickle fork will work, but you may damage the rubber boots.
I got it in but it seems like its supposed to go in from the top.The bushing got squished a little bit but I was able to get it in. My old idler arm had a grease fitting and my new one doesn't have a hole for a grease fitting.Will this affect anything besides not being able to lube it up? Couldn't get the impact under so I used my breaker bar
It just seems that bushings maybe seated to far, on mine it is equal distance between the top and bottom, I try and post picture later for you.
Here is a picture of my set up, years ago I also replaced the rubber bushing with Poly bushing that I machined, this way when they wear out, I can easily replace them without going through the hassle of pressing out sleeve.........will be upgrading the poly bushing to graphite impregnated "self lubricating" poly one day. As you notice installed with lip upwards, see how the exposed bushing is sandwich between the steel sleeve and large washer. The bushing is pretty much sticking out equal distance top/bottom. The space between the center link bar and bushing is helpful when removing as bearing separator halves (jaws) can be installed and then bushing pressed out. Having the lip bottom out against the center link bar makes it really difficult to press out........ You can also see the grease fitting on the frame side mount of the idler, this is also a MOOG replacement. I think you should be OK, worst that can happen is rubber bushing on bottom may wear out faster. If possible, have someone carefully/slowly turn the wheel lock to lock while you observe movement of center link/idler arm just to make sure nothing is binding and that it moves smoothly. If in doubt, take it to a wheel alignment shop to check out....
