I STILL have a drivetrain vibe and HOW do I get it fixed?

Scott; point of my post was that I had a bad flywheel that was new, so it may be one area to check. If you have eleminated the engine, then it is a moot point. Good luck, and I hope you get it solved out.

 

Not trying to call you out Earl. So please don't take it that way.

And actually, it wasn't until AFTER your post and a quiet long drive home that I finally decided it can NOT be engine, because I rev it and it stays smooth, and smooths out if I don't have it under load and on the road. Probably not drivetrain either, because I can drop it into neutral at 60 mph and it goes away. So it is starting to seem like I am down to exhaust drone.

I really do need an H or X, and may try it even if it doesn't fix the problem.

I have kept it simple and straight so I can remove one side of the exhaust as a whole to get at upgrades. Maybe I can have an X put in slip-on style so I don't have to take the entire exhaust off as one piece.

 

It can still be a driveline issue. Many times bad U joints will vibrate under load from the engine, but not while coasting. But with new joints, that's pretty much a slim to none chance.

 

If the flex plate is ok check your headers on the driverside the 1st or second tube may slightly hit the control arm bolt while engine running also rear tube hitting steering box while running looks like theres clearence when not running but it does hit just put indentations in the tubes I did the vibes went away.

 

I HAD these two same problem spots. I cut the excess bolt with a sawzaw and put a pry bar to the tube along with some dremel grinding to the corner of the box to smooth it out. It didn't create a "drone" sound but it did vibrate and create excessive rattling.

 

Scott, I'm just going to throw these out there but I figure they've already been discussed or possibly tried. I'm just too lazy to read over both threads.
I had a similar vibration that drove me crazy for a while, turned out to be the rear u-joints did not fit the rearend yoke. I always just clamped them down neglecting to see that they could actually move slightly. The proper bearings for this yoke were 1/16" larger round. Of course this did make the bearings wear out quickly. I went thru 2 sets pretty quick before I realized what was going on.
The other thing that comes to mind is your motor/tranny mounts. How certain are you that they are not broken. Just wondering if you might have metal against metal somewhere.
I sure hope you get this fixed soon because I understand your frustration. I really disliked driving my car other than around town for short drives. Now I give her hell!!! Put around 800 miles on her this past October at CruisinTheCoast. Good luck buddy!

 

I made the same mistake. I just realized it recently. Blame it on a piss poor drop light under the car. Went from 1.065 cups to 1.08 to the correct 1.125" cups. Lots of the vibes went away, but not all.

 

I found my rear u-joint needed to have two different size cups. It had the same size cups. I was chasing a vibration when I found this oversite. I ended up having to make one joint out of two, but that actualy made two joints. It was like that when I got the 75. I could tell they were new but unfortunatly the rear one went bad.
Scott, I'm sure your crossmember is tight and there isn't any play where it bolts up to the body? Are the bolts the right diameter?

 

Hmmm. U-joints size. I didn't even order them. The guys at the drive-shaft shop who straightened them gave me two new sets. So it very well could be that. I will just measure them rather than even attempt to see if there is any play. Just to be safe.

As far as the crossmembers, mounts, etc. I am pretty sure that they are all new, in good shape and tight.

 

"everything right but something still wrong."

"welcome to my world"...:Handshake

 

Of course the bearing in the driveshaft is pressed in so it will have to be right. I had the same problem as Gene mentioned. I had to have two different size cups as the ones in the yoke were slightly larger. When you pull it out you need to look at the condition of the needles too. If it is in fact the problem they will be bad due to the movement.

 

Any idea what the part number is for the correct u-joint? If I am going to get under there and yank it out, I may as well swap it for a new one, as cheap as they are. Besides, with all of the vibrations these have been under for the past 500 miles or so, they are likely worn or at least stressed.

 

Sorry but my boxes are at home. I do know that it took a combination in my case. It might be because I was dealing with Pep Boys. They had to order it and it was wrong. I got a second one and it was wrong. Figured out that using both worked. One had big cups and one had small cups. The + was the same on both.
Like Ray said, the one in the yoke is tight or should be. Then the the mating ones should fit without space to roll into the pinion. This is the one you probobly should pay attention to cause the fit is close.

 

Ray got me saying yoke . The end of the drive shaft is where they are pressed into. The yoke is the piece coming out of the trans.

 

The shaft comes out so easy maybe you could try using someone elses as a test.