Question though, in reverse flow cold water would be hitting the thermostat first, right? how is it opening up? Do you have to run with a thermostat that opens at lower temps?
Blah, Blah, Blah.....long rod 306 with decent heads and a KB roots blower. Should put down 500 to the tires without breaking a sweat. Put it in your Maverick and go play. Should be good for up to 100K miles at a minimum.
306 long rod with blower...what kinda rpms? Seems like I could run it up a little higher (with the right cam and balanced parts). Are we talking more like a 6k, or 8k motor?
6000 would be all it would need. Convert it to an EFI setup and it'll knock down 20 mpg and give you an 11 second daily driver.
Scott. If you need any information on the rotrex charger let me know, I can answer any questions you may have. As far as the quality on these is concerned... They are o.e.m. quality. They are being looked at very closely by gm and other car manufactures. They are compact. A c30 model is just a little bigger than an alternator. 6-8 psi will be more than streetable, in fact I would go for 10psi. If a bone stock miata CAN deal with it, me thinks your small block ford can. JMHO Let me know. Jamie
The T-stat moves to the bottom of the block. Water Flow: radiator -> heads -> block -> t-stat -> radiator -> heads -> etc.
It's generally not a great idea to spin blower motors very fast. 1) you need more belt tension 2) The blower has a max speed limit before it just turns into an air heater. This means you have to slow the belt down to get the same blower speed at a higher engine speed. Then you get into pully swaps and all kinds of fun stuff. Plus the blower won't be very snappy at low RPM either. 3) Longer rods do move up the maximum speed of the engine, but it increases the amount of rod stretch and also makes the rod more prone to buckling and failing. I would not feel comfortable running a street motor over 6k on a regular basis without some serious hardware. The flat tappet won't appreciate the kind of valve spring pressure you'll need. If you run a lower spring pressure, then you run the risk of floating the valves. A roller cam with a rev kit would be pretty bullet-proof. Expensive, but worth it. I digress though, because the engine you want should only see trips to 5,000 or 5500 once in a while. You probably won't be running the blower off of the accessory belts, so you won't get into the kinds of problems the new cobra guys are running into with overspeeding the accessories. Don't forget you'll also have to get a dizzy that can compensate for boost. Even a vacuum modulated one only adjusts one direction. So you might give up some part throttle and idle quality to get the right timing at WOT. Maybe not though. You'll have to get some head gaskets with real good fire rings too. Ford only put 4 bolts per hole on the windsor, so they don't always seal the best on blower motors. Cometic makes an awesome gas filled fire ring gasket that is practically indestructible. You'll also need to run a bigger gap on the top ring to compensate for the extra heat. Don't want to scuff any walls. Forged slugs should already have pretty good clearance, so I don't think you'll have to worry about them grabbing the walls.
Interesting how this thread started as a coolant question, and became a blower question... Lots of really good things to think about
Sissy. :evilsmile Keep the carb......Weiand or B&M roots blower. Or you're back to a Procharger with a blow-through carb setup. Procharger can still be intercooled with an air-air unit and blow into a modified carb.
Good article. I have always liked those AFRs. If I ever got a new set of heads... 1.7 roller rockers are already on the shopping list, and I would like to go to roller lifters. I think I saw some drop-in replacements that don't need any other machine work. As for EFI, I just don't want to part with the simplicity of a carb. Much less wiring, funner to tinker with.
