IMO the plugs are lean and they look like fair 'hot' plugs. Either one of these can cause your engine to run hotter, both are double trouble. Get some more fuel in there to cool your chamber down and see if your cooling troubles don't go away. Dave
i have stock gears in mine.... tranny was rebuilt recently.... .4 core radiator.... 180 stat.... stock water pump... .flex lite fan.( i was told to put the stock steel fan back on).... electric fan on front of radiator... after market fan shroud (universal chrome type) fan is half in the shroud..... engine is not that built...484 cam... 9.5:1 compression pistons... run 91 octane gas.. 600 edel carb.. 2500 stall convertor ( slow rpms making tranny heat up the radiator?) would a tranny cooler make the radiator run cooler? since the tranny temp is prolly less than the engine temp) my car runs hot even in the winter...so i know somehting is amiss.. on the freeway it will stay around 195...........city..it will climb up to 210 sometimes... it used to be up at 240 before the 4 row radiator... i am tired of the over heating...i would like it to run around 195 max... people tell me that 210 is ok... i just dont like it that hot... am i wrong...what am i missing??
Actually, stmanser, I would call your engine "pretty built". Just the 9.5:1 compression has me beat by about 50 HP, maybe more (I have 8.0:1). I agree that anything over 190 is "hot". I finally fixed mine today. It is a short-term fix, because I know that the engine is running too lean, so I need the metering kit. I recognize that I will lose respect from many who read this today, because I engaged in a few "no-no's" Today, I took off the trans cooler, mounted it on the grill rather than on the radiator, and put it off to the far driver side. Should still get plenty of fresh air, especially when moving. I also took the radiator off, flushed it really good with water hose, lots of little rust chunks came out. "Lots" being enough to maybe cover the bottom of a measuring cup one layer thick. These are mostly rust flakes and things that look kinda like fish gravel, but only much smaller. Maybe as big around as pencil lead. I flushed the radiator from top to bottom, then flipped it and did it the other way. Then I laid the radiator on the ground with an old radiator cap in. Both hose inlets were facing up. Added a 50/50 mixture of MURIATIC ACID until it filled to the top of the inlets. Watched it really close, but let it sit maybe 10 or 15 minutes, since the bubbling of the calcium deposits was slow. Before I did this, I tested the solution on an exposed brass section of the inlet to make sure it wasn't going to eat the brass. Dumped all the acid onto the driveway (side effect was cleaning the concrete) put the garden hose into the radiator and let it run for about 10 minutes. Again, flipped it over and let it run some more. I wanted to make sure there was absolutely no acid left in there when I hooked it back up to the car. Upon inspection, maybe 70% of the calcium was removed, leaving maybe 50% of the brass exposed inside, at least where I can see. Before, you could see no metal, just white calcium. Next, I took the 160 degree thermostat out, drilled 6 holes around the perimeter of the spring housing. These holes were a little bigger than 1/8". I was unable to get a "hi flow" thermostat, so for the short term (until next payday!) I made my own. Half gallon of antifreeze, topped off with water, and ran it. Before, it slowly heated up to 220 or 230. This time, it heated up quickly and stopped at 170, then slowly heated to 180. Right where I want it. Ran about 10 miles at 3250 RPMs 70mph, then stopped on the side of the road and let it idle for about 10 minutes. It heated up to 195 or 200, but within a mile of gunning it and getting back on the highway, it dropped to 185 and held steady. 5 miles later, red light for 2 minutes or so. back up to 190. At takeoff, hovered around 185-190 for the ride home. By the way, the outside temp is a nice balmy and humid 90 degrees. I like these temps. The only problem is I did a number of things I shouldn't have, and I did not fix what is likely the real problem--the lean fuel mixture. But, after I fix the mixture, I feel that this new cooling setup should last me for the next 50 HP in improvements. I will order that metering kit next payday. Then replace all the doctored parts I made today and get a new water pump. At least I can drive for the next 2 weeks without blowing a head gasket. Might melt a piston if it is too lean???
correct me if i am wrong....but if a car runs hot...it leans out.....so the heating could be causing your lean condition and the lean condition could be causing your heat.... i think i am not lean....i am running metering rods that ar 5 sizes up from the stock rods...dont know the numbers right now since i am at work.... but i think stock is 7047 and i am running 6535? not sure exactly....i guess i should put new jets in it....
