this is something i have saved some time ago http://www.hotrodsandhemis.com/Traction.html this looks like it will work for any car brad
those plans look pretty good except for how the front pivit point works. they put this on a truck that has ears that the brackets go on the outside. we cant do that on a mav. how have people done this part? i know that caltracks uses a alum. bushing that is the with of the spring and a sleve that is wider than the bushing for the front pice to rotate on. is there a way to keep the stock bushing in there or does it have to be replaced?
the way i did it: the stock bushing has excess rubber sticking out both sides of the spring. i took a hacksaw and cut the rubber off the center pin (flush w/ spring). this leaves a shoulder for the bracket to rotate on. when i removed mine the other day for painting, there were no issues with doing it this way. ......
My mechanic suggested that the next time i have them off to put a set of these (rod end covers) on them... ...they come in a set of 6, you need 8...
...:16suspect... I don't know much about these types of bars so i'm trying to understand the benefits between these and traction bars. I see that they are connected at the front but...
Regular traction bars aka "slapper" bars dont eliminate spring wrap which creates problems like wheel hop for one, which I know im not the only one who has this problem because every Mav ive owned with posi has had it.Theyre also alot stronger than the slapper bars,they dont flex and bend,theres other benefits also.If you go to Calvertracing.com it explains everything there about how they work. gabe
i have some aditional questions on these. how thick are the front triangle plates that people are useing? do you put any washers between the plates, spings and torque boxes?
I have the originals (BTW, OP - those are excellent clones!) and the side plates look to be 3/16" thick. There is a large aluminum bushing (going from memory here, the ID is about 1.25" or so) that presses into the front spring eye in place of the rubber one and another smaller bushing that slip-fits inside of that bushing with the ID a couple of thou larger than the bolt. The smaller bushing is longer than the spring-eye bushing. There is a washer that goes over each side of the small bushing and takes up the side clearance. The whole assembly goes up into the torque box and when you tighten the bolt, it squeezes the small bushing (but not the large) which allows the the two bushings to be able to rotate, yet have no side play. Hope that's clear...
