The track wont tell you horse power. I have a friend that built his 306 first, same specs and identical parts.. Yea I copied,, It was put on the dyno at the shop that built his (I built mine).
No kidding! I would be interested in seeing the chart that would calculate that or the formula used..
what all desides the rpms, cause id like to run some high rpms around 7 to 8000. i am taking a tool and dye class so im in a machine shop almost every day. any hints about how to notch those pistons and do you got any parts numbers for the parts ill need to get this motor runnin with the x303?
For starters if you really want to turn well over 7000 rpms you will need some bucks for all the high end goodies.. I spent around 3000 and I had a lot of parts from other builds.. And I only turn 7200 rpms.. you need serious money to get above 7500 Rs. But if your set on making high Rs, it must be a fully balanced rotating assembly. A light weight crank, full roller motor with top of the line valve trane.. Also the cam you choose will have an rpm range that you have to keep in mind... Practice building your motor and see how it would perform with " Desk Top Dyno" its a neat comuter program..You have a lot of research to do(homework) Make a list of what you want when your done..Daily driver? Rear gear? there are many questions to answer before to turn any wrenches.. Good luck hope I have helped a little, I dont claim to be a gooru just a shade tree machanic..
do you know how i can get the desktop dyno with out paying so much for it? do you have it or know someone that does cause you could load it up to a site or email it and it would work for free
At a minimum, to spin it to 7500, you'll need at least ARP bolts on the stock rods. You don't need anything else in the bottom end. The stock crank is fine. I've spun a factory reman shortblock to 7500 (City Motor Supply, Dallas Tx.) with no other mods than installing ARP bolts in the stock rods and did this one at a time without disassembling the motor. Cam was a B303, Heads were Canfield 1.94/1.60 valves, 1.7 Comp roller rockers. Intake and carb was a Vic Jr, topped with a Holley 650 DP. With your GT40P heads, you'll need to drill out and retap the heads to accept std 3/8 or 7/16" studs and guide plates, probably need to mill the stud pads to gain clearance for the guide plates. You'll need springs with about a 120 lb seat pressure and 340 open as well to spin it to 7500. Also you'll need better lifters than the stock rollers. I use Crane's #36530-16 lifters.
No, Im not sure where to get it cheap? ebay maybe.. I dont want this to sound harsh but its a small investment for the money that it could save you.. Nothing like buying parts that wont be right for your build... Thats how I ended up with so many extras from prior builds..
I got mine off ebay for about $20. Dyno2000 v 3.10. Probably not the most accurate, but gives you a good starting point, and you can put in new parts and see what kind of change you might net.
