Flywheel issue...converting to t5

Discussion in 'Technical' started by lynhrt210, Apr 26, 2012.

  1. Streamliner

    Streamliner Member

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    Agreed....I had one in a Mustang, 347, Tremec and 3:89's that worked and drove perfectly and throttle response was incredibly quick
     
  2. lynhrt210

    lynhrt210 Member

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    When I look at it, it looks like the 2 bolt style like the older pressure plate. Where the bolts are closer than wider apart on the new pressure plate.
     
  3. rthomas771

    rthomas771 Member

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    I'm guessing y'all have more flat land than hills. Here is a good read on the pros and cons using a lightweight flywheel on the street http://chicaneculture.com/2010/05/basics-flywheel/
     
  4. markso125

    markso125 Member

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    Well if you got the clutch for a 5.0 and a T5 then it wont fit the old flywheel.
    I assume you are using the T5 bellhousing and going to either hook up a hydraulic or cable clutch?
    I have to ask because if you are using a 3 or 4 speed bellhousing with an adaptor then you need to get the style of clutch that matches your flywheel and use the mechanical linkage.
     
  5. Bryant

    Bryant forgot more than learned

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    funny read, but bs.
    my mustang picked up .3 in the quarter with the switch.

    san diego is a very hilly place. i have never had any problems with hills.

    that story that you linked to is one mans blog. it looks like he has miata or some other 4 cyl car. i suspect that with less cylinders firing less times for each crank revolution the needed flywheel inertia is greater.

    that story is really funny how it talks about you have to shift faster with a light weight flywheel. when drag racing i will power shift. that is when you dont lift off the gas when pushing the clutch. the way i figure it is that there is an even trade off between the two fly wheels.

    1. the cast iron flywheel will keep the motor from reving to high during the moment of release of the clutch and provide more inertia to be transmited when the clutch grabs again. thus should have a greater et gain from the power shift but will be harder on the drive line parts.

    2. the aluminium fly wheel will allow the motor to rev higher during the moment of clutch release and the inertia will be less when the clutch grabs. the higher rpm could make up for the less inertial that is transmitted. also it would be easier on the drive line.

    basically all the supposed problems stated in that blog were never problems i encountered or anybody i know who has switched have encountered.

    have you ever had an aluminum flywheel on a street driven v8? you are one of the well experienced members of this board and i would like to know about any direct experience you have of the difficulties an aluminum flywheel caused you.

    i really doubt the original poster will change his flywheel. it sounds like he needs to get the correct pressure plate for his flywheel.

    the aluminum flywheel i put on my car and mashori's car has both bolt patterns on it. that is one more thing to consider.
     
  6. lynhrt210

    lynhrt210 Member

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    Yup I just got a different pressure plate and bam its right on the money.
     
  7. lynhrt210

    lynhrt210 Member

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    Is it true that a lightweight flywheel can cause shutter to the tranny
    ?
     
  8. Bryant

    Bryant forgot more than learned

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    i havent experienced it. shutter or clutch chatter is usually from a bad surface on the flywheel, bad clutch disk or bad surface on the pressure plate. also bad motor and trans mounts can cause a shutter or chatter.
     
  9. Streamliner

    Streamliner Member

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    Make sure to check the T5 input shaft bearing retainer....Originals were notorious for wearing out where the throw out bearing rides on it....Better steel one's are available

    [​IMG]
     
  10. rthomas771

    rthomas771 Member

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    I tried an aluminum FW in my Falcon back in the 70’s. I found myself having to rev the engine more than normal to start rolling. No way could I start a roll under 1000 rpm (3.25:1 – E-70x14’s – 2500 lb car). When I swapped back to a steel flywheel (I don’t think “Billet” was in our dictionary back then) I didn’t have to ride the clutch to get rolling, mater of fact I could get rolling at idle if I pedaled the clutch a time or two. If I had to let up on the throttle a bit in traffic I could stay in the same gear without down shifting. When I ditched the light flywheel my gas mileage went up also because the power valve wasn’t squirting fuel every time I touched the gas pedal. Like everything in life has a balance and finding that balance on an everyday street car I have to lean toward how the factory has their flywheel weight. Don’t get me wrong…I liked the fast rev of the aluminum FW, but hated the lack of the inertia momentum that came with it on a street car that gets driven every day. As far as performance went...I didn't feel any between the two flywheels with the buttometer but my left leg thanked me for making the swap
     

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