OK, let me throw this out there... I wrote down all the numbers that are left on the carb. There is a 6R 5534 B on top, and L47764 and 8519 and 8520 on primary block, 747762 and 6502 and 6501 on secondary block. Is there any chance this is a 4776 carb, which would make it fall on the 600cfm range in that chart? Gene, I think I need to mess with the cams also. I was cruising a minute ago getting steaks and beer (it is officially a grocery getter again, but has a really odd lopey idle). When I needed to get up and go from 30 mph to about 50 (not stomping it), it hiccupped, and I think that is a cam issue.
160 or more is fine. Oil detergents don't work below that, but after 160 are fine. In other words, below 160 will cause sludge. Plus oil should run a few degrees warmer than water I would think. Add to that that spring is coming... and all your driving is not highway.
It is a 4776, which is a 600 DP. Edit: Well, you don't have an air horn do you? If not, then it is still up in the air which it is, without measuring the throttle bores. (at the bottom of the TB) The base plates were interchangable for a hundred CFM up or down.
I hope it IS a 600, it would be better match to my engine. Ratio, is that a "for-sure" on tha? Oh, and I ordered the the big kit $43 with no shipping from O'Reilly. It comes in tomorrow, and I will look at it and make sure it is correct.
Sound like it is a 600DP that good those carbs are nice,like Ratio said they used the throttle plates for up to 100 cfm difference.What are the little nubers on the throttle plates (blades)themselves i could check them to one of the 12 Holleys i have. Also don't jump to fast on the bandwagon about changing pump cams.In 16 years of playing with holleys i have never put a non stock pump cam in.I can usually get any stumbles out by tuning the accelerator pump adjustment or changing squirter sizes. Not saying that a pump cam change is not possible just would hate to see you buying stuff you may not need
12 Holleys and not 1 pump cam mod, wow. Not much playing around with the performance aspects of it. Maybe you have the tuning down and are able to tune it better than most, especialy me. If you would try changing that cam, you might feel the performance they can create. I feel this one mod does quite a change in the way it performs. It can actually be night and day... I spent $7.99 to get it to perform the way I wanted to and get to the finish line first. As for the jets, never changed them from factory sizes. I personly could try that and see if things do get better, but just don't think it would, on mine. So now I may spend what Scott spent on jets, but may not gain any improvement. I have noticed that alot of us who actually try and get the most out of our Holleys, have parts left over. P.S. I wish I had 12 Holleys
Don't know how... I can do audio only, but haven't figured out how to convert from 8mm vid camera to wmv, or whatever everyone else can watch. Any hints I can try?
The #330 cam with the screw in position #1 and hole #1 works perfect on any 30cc pump. Just play with the squirters and linkage adjustment to get the shot pinned down. 330 is a pink cam with 3 holes in it. It is often stock in Holleys.
Ratio (and whoever else might know), can we verify that my carb is 600 cfm based on these numbers? Or can I measure anything to verify it? When wagesofsin and I were doing the initial tune, he kept saying things like "if this is a 750, it should be dying by now" so it sounds like he was thinking it was a smaller carb a while back. It would really be nice to verify that this is a 600...that would work so much better with my current engine setup. Even though my last Edelbrock was 600 cfm, I think this double pumper would be able to pick up where that Edel left off...