Different strokes ... But, if you're looking for a project, you enjoy a challenge, you like to do things you haven't done before, enjoy learning new skills, and get satisfaction from bringing an inexpensive, unusual, sporty little car back from the brink, rust repair can be part of the process. It works for me.
I think everyone makes a great point. Why go with a rusty car when non-rust cars are easily available in my state and why not pick up a great skill by fixing the rust on the car I have now. I actually have a MIG welder, I have the air compressor, even paint and DA grinders and spray guns etc. . . the problem for me has been a space to do work on my car. I live in a condo for now, give me about 5-10 years and I'll have my own place and I will definitely be fixing rust instead of replacing the car.
heres what you do. learn how to fix the rust on your car. then you can get a rust free body to move all your stuff to and find that it has rust like 90% of all mavericks do and fix its rust.
Up here, a rusty car is always a rusty car. No matter how much work you've put into it, it's still a patched up rusty car. Unless the car had some personal value, I would take a Cali car any day. Once you have one you get spoiled. My 74 Grabber is a rusty car, I've had it almost 20 years now.. but my father drove it, my father in law drove it,and my mother, and since they are all gone, it has sentimental value to me.
I like how alot of ads say rust free, but you know that's not true. I have yet to see rust free. Unless you have gone through and removed the rust, I bet it has rust somewhere. Dave, i'm shocked. I don't know you to be sentimental.
There is a difference between "rust free" and "no rust". I have had several cars I would consider "rust free". They are out there, and pretty easy to find. To me...a rust free car is one that needs absolutely NO panels replaced. It may need a small repair to a rear quarter down low, or on the front aprons under the fender...but nothing bigger than a 2" by 2" patch. Rust Free also means no spot welds being drilled out anywhere on the car. It also means no repair to torque boxes or frame rails. I have had 1 Maverick that had absolutely NO RUST. It came from Ohio believe it or not. Sold it on ebay, guy bought it to give to his kid, kid wrecked it.
Even my green 73, that spent it's whole life in Seal Beach California had some rust, the bottom of the passenger quarter (maybe 3" X 8") and under the battery tray. But that was pretty much it. My other 73 from Arkansas, needs the floors patched, the quarters, and the 3 spots on the leading edge of the roof (vinyl top car), but that's it, the rest of the car is 100% rust free. For cars that are 36 years old...that's not much rust.
My '72 came from Washington state and was as rust-free as any car that age could possibly be. The only rust-through spots were on the leading edge of the hood where the lip moulding is. The floorpans had very minor surface rust and it was all on the inside. Everything else was cherry (thanks, Michael!) Russ
I guess it all depends on the parameters of your build. If you're trying to restore a Maverick more or less to factory specs, for a minimum amount of time and money, I agree that rust-free cars are the way to go. For me, the time isn't an issue as I am in no hurry for my build. It is a hobby and I enjoy working on it. I am placing no deadlines on my project as it would no longer really be a hobby if I did that. I also don't anticipate that a few rust repairs such as lower quarter panels, etc., which I am anticipating being able to fab up myself, will add significantly to the cost of the project. I am also planning on doing some custom bodywork such as scoops, etc. and I would not want to do this on a rust-free or grabber car. So, I feel that my plane-jane 71 Mav that I picked up for virtually nothing with a bit of rust is the perfect car to resto-mod for me. Like I said, I think it all depends on each person's situation and what they are trying to accomplish. I don't think your view that rust-free cars are the way to go is anymore valid than somebody else's view that fixing rusty cars is a good way to go.
If someone was to work on it, as as job. I'd say you could fully repair a cowl, in 4 days. Remove the cover, patch, seal, replace the cover. At $65/hr (shop rate) that's just over 2 grand, then add material...3 grand around here, easy....
not at liberty to say at this time... i can tell you this...1st day they had it apart and started on the repair...we are taking pics. ......
