I swear that this thing will move again under it's own power some day! August 7th...a bit ahead of schedule though!!! Now go outside and enjoy the nice weather Don. For the record I was just down in the garage mocking up a sticker for the exhaust and it is SO sticky out there! Yech!
Raining up here in Pinetop tonight. Hope it stops by tomorrow as I need to get some more work done outside. Haven't been fishing since Monday. Have to much work to do. Need to come back home by Friday.
Oh man I wish that I had problems with rain. I keep hoping! Anyhow, an update. I had some stainless steel exhaust plates waterjet cut for around the 5 inch exhaust where it exits the fender. I'm picking them up tomorrow and I will post a pic once they are installed. My buddy offered to help me mount them using aircraft rivets this weekend so this will be a learning experience for me.
Don't let it fool you, it's even bigger in person! It took the biggest shoe horn I had to fit it in there. (I really had my doubts for a while.) :Handshake
Anything to save the shock towers? jk Looks good. I like different stuff like this. Shows how creative you can be. And you gotta be creative sometimes with these cars.
Of course! Is it really a classic Ford without the hideous shock towers?!? Truth be told, I'm too cheap to eliminate them. If I could do the whole MII thing for $2000 I might consider it (not that I even have $2k laying around mind you!) but I would be more prone to consider it if I could buy it in $300 chunks at a time. Most of these places that sell the conversion want $2500 for the kit, then you probably want to upgrade to the better pieces and then you have to change your oil pan...by the time its all said and done it looks like you are into it for $4500. At that point I could have gone and bought a Fox body car and been racing with late model parts much earlier! But you're right Gene, a little ingenuity goes a long way and is much more fun.
It's a 1.36. Yes, I am worried about it spooling. I was going to use two of the Thunderbird turbos originally (before I realized that one big one takes up less room than two small ones) and they were .68 each. My thought process was that if I could spool 2 of the .68's then I should be able to spool one 1.36. See the math? .68 * 2 = 1.36 I just don't know if turbo a/r's are additive. Anyhow, there are many people on theturboforums.com website that have made this particular turbo work (Borg Warner S400-80). I have my fingers crossed. But the manual transmission is working against me. That's why you see those two little solenoids up on the carb. When all else fails, force it to spool!
^oh yea nitrous alway's saves the day lol,sweet build man cant wait to see it run,what kinda of power you looking for?
I could use a 2 step, but I made my own headers and crossover. I just don't trust my welds that much to let it backfire in the pipe that much! LOL My goal when I started this was 1000 rwhp. Is it possible? All I can say is that it has been done in the past by others. Am I talented enough to pull it off? Only time will tell. Will it be a ticking time bomb? Quite possibly. If I actually succeed then traction will be the limiting factor. Also I'm not in this to be consistant (bracket racing is out of the question...and I wouldn't have the 4 speed if that were the case) but I just love to push the envelope to see what I can achieve from an engineering perspective. (I am an engineer in real life.) So we will see. If it runs 11's I will be perfectly content. If it runs 10's all the better! If it goes any faster than that I will probably crap my pants, but I will be thrilled!!! I'm careful not to set my goals too high. In addition I don't expect the first passes to be all that fast...that will come with time and tuning over at least a year of runs.
if you do get your 1000 hp to the tires and hook it up on the track your going to be alot faster than in the 10s. are you building the car to take 1000 hp? you know cage, subframe connector, etc. what trans are you going to use? what suspension are you going to use? mashori has very similar goals as yours.
Yep, the rest of the car is set up for it. The cage is a homebuilt 10 point. Mild steel as I don't believe the hype that chrome moly gets from the NHRA. Our off road class 10 race car has had serious issues with CM and we eventually went to mild steel. I would rather it bend slightly than break completely. I'm hoping to get it certified before I get it running but I live about 25 miles from the inspector out here. It's had subframe connectors for a couple years now. The entire drivetrain should be up to 9's and honestly even more. It's a 9" braced rear with a spool and a strange center section. The axles are 35 spline gundrilled and lightened Strange units with the large bearings. I believe it is a chrome moly driveshaft with a loop of course. A Liberty Toploader 4 speed with a Hurst v-gate shifter. The clutch is a long/borg and beck style twin, with an SFI scattershield. The rear suspension is the only thing that worries me. I'm old school and firmly believe in 4 links for a 4 speed car, but opted to try the Caltracs, monoleaf springs, sliders and rancho shocks. I've seen the PSCA cars go 8's on this type of setup. The slicks are 28.5 x 10.5. Front and rear disc brakes of course (nothing aftermarket though). That is the same setup that I had in my old Mustang drag car without any stopping issues, but I have a chute if it goes that fast that it's necessary. Kirkey seats, 5 point belts and soon to have a window net. The motor is the Boss block, 4130 rotating assembly, dart 225 cnc heads and of course forged pistons. The motor is completely studded with all ARP fasteners. The electronics are an MSD 7531 with a crank trigger. I also have a wideband for datalogging the a/f mixture. I'm setup to run E85. The fuel system is where this car will shine. I have a sumped tank with -12 going to the Aeromotive Pro pump and controller. The fuel lines are -10 up and back with a Aeromotive return style regulator. The carb is my favorite part with dual needle and seat bowls, billet baseplate and metering blocks, annular boosters and a system referred to as the crutch to open the power valves. The body of the car features all 1972 sheet metal with fiberglass bumpers and a carbon fiber grabber hood. The heater is gone along with the windshield wiper equipement to make room for the air to water intercooler and support equipment (pump and tank in the trunk). Kirkey seats and bare bones gauges (I am going to rely on the data recorder for most of the info) since I don't pay much attention to them while I'm racing anyhow. The Nitrous is a hybrid wet system with the best parts from NX, ZEX and NOS. I proved out a system like this on a Pinto powered turbo sandrail that I owned back in the 80's. The turbo as I said before is a Borg-Warner S400-80mm unit with the 1.35 a/r on the exhaust side. As this post showed it's a 5" downpipe but has 1 3/4" primaries feeding a 2 1/2" crossover into the 3" feed into the turbo. I agree it should be faster, but saying so always bites you in the rear. I'm going to keep my expectations low and hope for better! If it does then I will have exceeded my goals! I don't think that I will ever put a number to it until it proves that it can do it. That's just how I am. LOL
Tony LOOKS killer that is 10lbs of chit in a 5 lb box but you already know this right?.........lol.........you dial that thing in and your way in the 9's keep us posted. Brian.
