That's a 6-cylinder, right? 65-80 ft/lbs, torqued in this order: 5 1 3 7 6 4 2 8 If 302, use stage 1 55ft/lbs, stage 2 70 ft/lbs & 09 5 1 3 7 10 6 2 4 8 In case you dont get the patterns, for the v8 tighten the center top one first, then the center bottom one, then the one to the right of the center top, then the one below that, etc. The last one tightened is 10 at the bottom left. Hope these help.
Turn the crank several times, most of the anti-freeze will come out on it's own. Unless the rings are really bad and it already drained into the pan You can use an air compressor if you have one to get the rest out. Don't forget to clean the surfaces really good before you reassemble it. Just think, if you paint everything while it is apart, the engine detailing part of the restoration will be done.
I really don't think it's possible to remove a head without getting anti-freeze in the cylinders .. no big deal ... just sop it up with some towels. Maverick70 is right .. not that it's apart clean it up and paint it ... So you got new lifters and pushrods to put in there? Not sure but you may want to load up the lifters and camshaft with break-in lube before you fire it up ...
Yea, I got the lifters in and lubbed everything up real good before I dropped them in. I guess the rings are pretty good because none of the anti freeze drained out of the cylinders. We ordered the push rods Thursday, they should be here tomarrow (sunday). Found the reason they bent, the valves are seized up BIG TIME.
When I say lube I mean Camshaft break in lube ... not motor oil ... not sure if you knew that or not ....
I thought that the gap for a 250 was .044 or .53. But I could be wrong...I know the gap for the 200ci I6 is .053 or .044
Well, gap is the least of my worries now. Me and my dad were talking and when I pulled the old plugs out, the plugs on the cylinders with bent rods were completely full of black sludge so there is no way they were sparking, thus not makeing the engine struggle to run and appear pretty smooth. My dad figgures when we put the new plugs in, they started makeing it fire on those cylinders and that made it start struggling and shakeing. The intake valves on cylinder 1 and 6 were stuck so bad I had to drag my dad into helping and he used a block of soft aluminum and a dead blow steel hammer to finnally get them to budge. There was about a half inch of black sludge and carbon built up behind those valves leading me to believe the engine has been ran this way for quite a while. Dad is slowly getting more and more intrested in the car now... me, him and my bro talked for a hour or so last night about what all me and my bro could do to the car, and what he did to his Comet. He still maintains that he "wants nothing to do with the car". I got the head all apart, all valves and everything out, new stuff on the way. Should have it back together tomarrow night (well, tonight now... ) If all goes well, all's we'll need is insurance and licens plate and we'll be ready to roll. I'll let you guys know how it goes. Thanks everyone for all the help, and especially thanks Terry. Get a steal of a deal on the car, AND "tech support". Not bad!
bent push rod Same thing happened to a 78 granada with 250 in line 6 I tuned it up and it started running like junk I took the valve cover off to find a pushrod on cyl 3 had jumped out of the lifter, cyl 4 pushrod was now bent badly, I took the head off and checked the lifters...every one was fine. I bought new lifters anyway and new pushrods(whole set) and replaced them. check your rocker arms also for excessive wear after I replaced the lifters and push rods (white lithium grease on both ends of push rods ) and bolted it back together, it ran like a sewing machine...sweet.not another problem.good luck with yours...Jim
Jamie Miles, When you pulled the head did it have a steel shim gasket ? If it did you`r gonna wanna have the head milled ~ .030 to keep the stock power and ~.060 for more power. Now would be a great time to port it too if ya wan`t a little more boost in the butt. You need to tighten the head bolts in a three steps . First tighten to 55 ft lbs wait ~ a hour then tighten to 65 ft lbs then wait at least 5 hours but alot of people say its best to wait 12 hours . Finaly tighten the head bolts to 75 ft lbs . In all three steps you should tighten the top - to bottom and midle outward or you might get a cracked head or leaks . The rocker arm shaft bolts should be torqued to 35 ft lbs . The ford sixes only have gear to gear timing sets if you order them from ford six parts But the 144 , 170 , 200 , and 250 all come with the timing chain set up from the factory . Good luck and have fun Jamie Miles .
Thanks. No, it didn't have any kind of shim, just a old nasty gasket. I just got back from Auto Zone, they said come back after 2 PM this afternoon to see if the push rods have came in yet. I went ahead and bought all new FEL-PRO gaskets while I was there along with new valve seals and some lapping compound to lap all the valves just to get a better seal. I'm going to go start putting the valves back in the head now... Pretty cool, today at Auto Zone there was a older guy working the register, and he started talking about a 76' 4 door with a 302 he has been doing work on. Must be about like yours Elliot. I told him about this site. I get the feeling these kids working there don't got a clue what they are doing most of the time. Other day when I went to order the push rods the kid was like "Maverick? Thats a Chevy, right?" Working at Auto Zone must make them feel like they know something about cars...
Aw, shucks. T'wernt nuthin'. Kind of wish you hadn't said that. Now everybody is gonna expect free tech support if I sell 'em something? However, I'm partial to helping youngsters and fortunately, there aren't many of them on here. I might give the same consideration to the elderly senior citizens...like Frank.
I called and asked how much a dual roller timing set would be for a '85 E150 with a 302 .The dude said "thats a camaro right ?" I was like :16suspect . After I was able to talk I said no , ford never made a camaro . I said again , I need a dual roller timing chain set for a 1985 FORD Econoline VAN with a 5.0 V8 and a 2 barrel carb . He said "oh oh ok , a timeing set is 19 bux" I said is it dual roller ? he said no . Never mind , I`ll call back another day . So it wasn`t made out of metal ? You might be lucky and the head might have already been milled then .
gotta love it when you ask for expert advice and there is none to be found.... it really ercks me when i call somewhere and i ask someone for something and they say ...oh the guy that knows about that left for the day...can you call back tomorrow..... LOL the best ever.... i called a tranny shop to rebuild my c-4...the guy at one shop quoted me $2600 if i want it done right ..and that was with me taking it out and taking it to them....i got it done for 680 with the good stuff..... then another shop i called wouldnt rebuild it since i had a 2500 stall already in it....they dont do full blown racing stuff...LOL.....if a 2500 stall is used for full blown racing then what is a 4000 stall for....?? Top Fuel....?
Got the engine back together, got kinda scared when it turned over for about 15 seconds and just kinda went putt.....putt......putt......putt..... Put the choke to about half way and it came to life and was running on the rough side, double checked all valves/rockers/pushrods were doing their job and they were so I blirped it a couple of times and it smoothed right out and ran smooth as a sewing machine. :bananaman Granted it hasn't ran for more then about 20 seconds, but it sounds real good. Tomarrow (today) all fluids are getting replaced and I'm going to let it idle for 15 or 20 minutes and take it for a test drive. I am totally and completely WORN OUT. I'm going to sleep like a baby... night night...
