A few ?? for the Nitrous guys....

Okay, I'll step up and comment on this thread - against my better judgement.

I do believe this thread holds the record for containing both the most mis-information and flames than any I've seen on here.

I guess this type of commenting is to be expected with iincreasing members. I suppose the term, 'growing pains', should be used in this post somewhere.

I would hope that, before someone post what they believe to be fact, realize there are others on this board with a lot more experience (and tact) than most of us on here.

We rely on these guy's willingenss to post up their knowledge and experience - saving us all a lot of heartache - in time, money and more importantly, loss of life and limb.

These guys don't want to argue with someone who is a self-proclaimed expert on a particular subject. It's a waste of their time and, ultimatley, WE ALL lose because these guys aren't willing to spend their time arguing with something that is stated as fact, when in reality, it isn't.


Grabber75, I read some of your earlier posts. You seem to be very opinionated on certain things ("Holley Carbs are junk" for example). The way you come across can be interpreted as a 'know-it-all' (sorry).

Using terms like, "IMO" (In My Opinon) in all our posts will be much more effective and tend to come across much nicer.

Giving our opinions on here is one thing - and encouraged. Dishing out insults adds NO value to this site, and quite frankly, dillutes the board's integrity.

I just hope this thread isn't the beginning of things to come. I'm afraid we'll lose valuable correct information because of it.

Be kind - rewind.

 

internally balance.

Thanks Steve.

 

I would like to run nitrous on my Comet. Cometgt74 you stated that your engine needs to be internally balanced for a big shot of nitrous 250+ but are fords small blocks are 28oz or 50oz externally balanced. how hard is it to internally balance these engines? Will I need to use heavy metal? I guess I will call Scat and ask about there cranks to check if they can easily be internally balanced. I would like to build about a 400-450 hp engine and then spray about 250-300 hp of nitrous.

 

Actually, I never stated that the motor must be internally balanced, what I meant was that it's better if it is internally balanced. The weak link in any small block ford over 450hp is the block, internally balancing will relieve some of the stress that the block sees. The early small block fords were 28 oz external balance and the late models were 50 oz. 50 oz is the worst, 28 oz is a little better but internal balance is the best. If you plan on spraying alot of nitrous I would suggest you have the motor internally balanced. If you have the budget I would suggest an aftermarket block, at the very least you will need a stud girdle!!

First you need to find a "reputable" shop to do your balancing. Thy will need your crank (the better quality crank the cheaper the balancing job will be) , a rod, piston, rings, one set of bearings, your dampener and your flywheel/flexplate. The heavy metal is the big expense, usually referred to as Mallory Metal but I think it's mostly Tungsten.

 

I didnt mean to put words in your mouth. "Should" be intenally balanced. I was planing to go with the 28oz externally balanced parts, but I will consider a "0" balance. Never really liked the fact that 302 were externally balanced anyway. I do have a SVO block, its been in my garage sitting for 5 years its about time I use it.

 

And if you decide you want to get rid of that SVO block just let me know!!

 

I hope that I haven't come across as a "know it all" on this thread.....some of the the things I say are opinion, most of what I say comes from my limited personal experience and the mistakes of close friends and others. One thing I can't sit by and listen to is mis-information though.

P.S. This is only in response to Ricks post.

 

Hey Comet, I lost my mind about 2 years ago. I tried to sell my block on ebay, I had paid $1800 for it and spent $900 on machine work. I ended the auction 1 min before it closed, it was only up to $960 so I kept it. I am sure glad I did.

 

IMO the above post is right on the money .

I , for one , will try to remember that .

 

Not having any real specs on my motor to speak of...what would be a safe shot of nitrous...I dont want to risk doing any damage to the car or engine.
I dont run at the track...but I love smoking these rice burners around town...and the occasional Chevy and Moped...er Mopar.
What I can offer in the way of specs, 302, Holley Contender intake,
Edelbrock 600 carb, bored 30 over, flat top pistons, and a mild cam, Hooker headers, 2 1/2" exhaust, 9" rear end with posi at 3:25 gear ratio going in this week.
Do yall think a 50-100 shot would be safe...or more maybe...I just dont know?
This thing is scary qwik off the line...I cant imagine what it would be like with the posi and some nitrous.

 

Do yall think a 50-100 shot would be safe

You'd be ok as long as your careful. My setup is very similar to yours and I have cast pistons. I've been running a 125 hp shot for about the past 12 years with no problems. A good fuel pump and high octane gas, retard the timing, WOT and at least 2500 rpm...hit the button!

 

Thanks again!

 

I agree riporter, I guess its true: you can never go fast enough!

My old beater needs all the help it can get.

I still have ALOT of work to do, before I actually make a Nitrous pass. I hope to have it all done and have a few runs on the bottle before the round-up!

 

Thanks Barry, you reminded me of another question.

I see where MSD has a activation box(Nitrous) that activates the Nitrous at 3,500 and turns it off at 6,000 rpm. That RPM range is the only time its activated. I have heard that stuff before, then Barry reminded me when he said "atleast 2,500 rpm's".
Now I am assumng that its a "little" different for a car with "locked-out timing" and a car with a vacumm or mechanical advince.

But heres my question:
Why do they recommend that(or any) rpm range?

I am assuming that cars with locked-out timing its more of a fuel starvation issue?????
Cars with a advance is it predetination????

I guess the low rpm range has me more puzzled than the high rpm range.

Why do they recommend activating it after a certain rpm??

****still trying to learn!****
Thanks.

 

It's not about ignition timing, it's a matter of how much time you have to fill the cylinders with nitrous on the intake stroke. At low rpm's there is more time to fill a cylinder, the nitrous is under pressure so it more completely fills the cylinder and can cause detonation. As rpm's increase there is less time to fill the cylinder, the charge is decreased and detonation becomes less of a problem. You can build an engine to accept more nitrous at low rpm's using conservative cam intake timing and really low compression but then it would run like crap when normally aspirated. Everything's a compromise.