A few ?? for the Nitrous guys....

Grabber 75 ,could you please give us some details on what the difference is in the "street "nitrous compared to "race "nitrous ?
Is there a chemical difference that you could elaborate on?
I have a couple of buddys who both have nitroused race cars... One is a `68 mustang pro mod type car with a 608c.i. Ford built by Engine Systems of Atlanta (Not completely dialed in yet but so far has ran
4.68 in the 1/8 . The other guy also runs a `68 mustang but it runs low to mid 5`s in the 1/8 with a 514. They both get their botlles filled at the same place ,by the same guy, from the same tank that the local fellas with 12 second 1/4 mile street cars do.
Could it be that they are running the wrong nitrous and could pick there times up alittle with some of the "Race" stuff?

 

http://www.nitrousexpress.com/welcome.htm

 

N2O is N2O

There is a difference between the N2O racers use and what the dentist uses in that the medical grade has no other gases mixed with it like SO2 which makes peoples head hurt if they try to inhale it for kicks .

The only way I can see racing nitrous being colder than street nitrous is the bottle pressure or the amount of moisture in the air on a certain day giving the impression of being colder .

Even still it isnt REALLY colder . If the bottle pressure is higher then there would be a larger pressure drop as the N20 hits the atmosphere or the inside of you nitrous system .

 

Cold nitrous bottle

That's why they make thermostatically controlled bottle heaters and bottle blankets.

 

OK, here's the first thing that would make me not want you as "my" crew chief......nitrous racers don't use low compression pistons just because of the nitrous, I know lots of guys running 13.5:1 - 15:1 on the nitrous and not having any problems!!!!!

The second and main thing, anyone who thinks you heat a nitrous bottle to keep it from freezing definitely needs to stay away from nitrous!!!! FACT!!!!!

I don't respect someone who tries to give adivce on something that they admittedly know nothing about!!!!!

Have fun bracket racing!!!!!

 

and like i said..........we dont run nitrous....dont need it, dont want it.......and bracket racing? pfffffftttttttt we run ihra top dragster for your information.......

 

It doesn't matter what form of drag racing most of the faster classes are running some type of power adder......some people run nitrous, some run blowers, some run turbo's, some run blown Nitromethane......they all break at some point in time no matter what power adder you choose!!!!! I wish you success in your IHRA competition.

 

ok i was gonna stay out of this BUT,,,,,,

ok everything has really already been said as far as N20 is n20... and as far as build a real motor, that comment really aint a fair comment cause lets see your 6.67 dragster pass a saftey inspection or drive down to the local cruse in,,, i think a 9 second street car is a pretty decent performer granit its not a 6 second car but what 1500-2000 pds heaver and what MAYBE 1/2 if not 1/4 of the money??? but believe me if money was no object hell yea id like to have a BIG cubic inch blown motor but since i dont have bottomless pockets....

and like Steve said Good luck in IHRA...

 

Nitrous know it alls

Thanks CometGT1974. You just saved me a lot of typing.

 

OK...

I have had 24 hours to cool off, so here goes.
1st: Thanks to all that posted some good info and those that answered my question.

2nd: Grabber75, what sense did it make to try and "belittle" or "dog" my slow car by comparing it to a blown alkie dragster? thats apples and potatoes!

3rd. you made reference to "build a real motor" I assume that you was implying that someone who runs nitrous does so cause the motor they built ain't fast enough to compete?? Well.........I hate to break the news to you, but a "blower" IS a power adder, the same as Nitrous! So maybe you should practice what you preach.

4th: my car is slow. I will agree with that. and I do want to go faster, thats why I am thinking about nitrous. But, take your motor(or whoevers it is you are the "crew chief" for) take the blower off, put a carb. on it. add some 110. put that motor in a 3,000 pound car, race it on foot brake, no trans brake or electronics and run 9 inch tires. Then you can come talk to me about my car being slow!

5th: and this is the MOST important one to me!
How can you come on a MMB, reply to some post from a guy(that you do not know) and you have no ideal what skill level or ability this person has. And you make a reference to heating up a nitrous tank with a torch, without adding a warning or disclaimer on HOW FREAKIN' dangerous that is! To be honest with you, when I read your first post and I got to that point, I figured everything else I read from you was "just for fun".
What if someone on this board read that, knew "dad" had a torch in the garage and knew that bottle temp helps performance( and thats about all they knew) went and got dads torch and heaven forbid, tried to heat the bottle???? Someone could have died! I know I am being extreme here, but its the truth!
I hate to think that my life is not worth the $100 or so dollars it takes to buy a blanket or a bottle warmer for nitrous.

Anyways, I also concure with Jim and Steve. Goodluck in IHRA.
I wish you success.

 

yes and i agree with you about the bottle............but next time you go to the races and watch the nitrous cars.........take the time and walk back in the staging lanes and watch them heat the bottles up with torches............your yelling at the wrong person for that......if you want to complain about the torches go talk to IHRA and NHRA i have seen racers in both of them do it ALL THE TIME. just imagine how many kids get to watch them do it there!!!! before you get on my case about it go back and really read my first post i was just informing you what i see about nitrous...then i get blasted for having an opinion? well when the rest of you guys take pot-shots at me im going to take pot-shots back

and as far as you go mavericl5946 i never meant to offend you or your car so i apologise for that the go build a real motor was not intended for you at all.......

and as far as the different mixes i was referring to the wet or dry systems.....wet being the safer of the two is all i meant......(most common cheap street set ups are or were at one time dry which poorly maintained will lean out and cause major damage)

with that said i will say no more.......and i hope my apology is accepted for what its worth

 

Geez...

 

Hey John, the only difference between a wet or dry system is on a wet system nitrous and fuel are injected into the manifold. On a dry system (usually on fuel injected cars) nitrous is injected into the manifold and the stock injectors make up for the extra fuel that is needed.....usually by using some type of adjustable fuel pressure regulator. Dry systems are actually safer in fuel injection setups since there's no chance of extra fuel puddling up in the intake runners and causing a backfire up into the manifold. I've seen several guys w/ wet systems on there stock mustangs blow the airbox to pieces.

 

Thanks Steve
Another question:

You said you know guys with 13.5to1 and higher compression, running Nitrous. How big of a shot are they running. I have 13.5to1. Stock block(no dart or SVO block) which I wish I had. I have a stud girdle and running real good internals. My "engine man" said a 175-200 shot would be no problem with what I have. Do you have any thoughts on this?

Thanks.

 

Is your motor internally or externally balanced?? My buddy with his Nova is running a 400 small block with 13.5:1 and he consistently runs a 250 shot but he has the 4-bolt block and his motor is internally balanced. If it were me i'd start out with a 100 shot and work my way up while keeping a close eye on ALL the plugs. If any signs of detination begin then you need to adjust your tuneup. If your motor is internally balanced I'd say you'd be ok all the way up to a 250 shot but if i'ts externally balanced I wouldn't exceed 175-200.


I would suggest that when you are gonna be running on the nitrous to run VP C16 or Sunoco Supreme NOS.