300 is just a number. It's not the holy grail. While it is good to have a number to shoot for, if you don't quite hit it, you will still be damn happy with your results. One simple path is to simply buy the Rerformer RPM package from Edelbrock. Makes something like 360hp per the dyno sheets on their website. Of course, that is at the flywheel. I am running that package on a 393 in my Mustang with a stock converter and a 3.50 rear gear and the thing flat out hauls. Just one guys opinion.....
I talked to them & that package I still need a 2200 stall or something like that. I really thought about it but I didn't know if the stock stuff will hold up.
Well, I am running a stock stall on a 393 that makes over 400hp, so I think you will be fine. Rear gears help in the stall department, and added HP increases stall to some extent.
You have alot more cubes on the same cam, it will act much smaller in your engine. To a 302, the same cam can be very radical. That is where the stall comes in play. There are also other variables like the extra torque causing the converter to raise it's stall, not hp. Next, you have this bigger engine, with more torque, in a heavier car, which also increases a converter's stall speed. It's waaaaayyyy too 'apples/oranges'. You give alot of great info Max, I just wanted to point out some oversights Dave
Well Max & Dave...I have been looking at short block & I can up with, if I have to buy a short block It might be better to get a 351 than a 302. Why buy the same thing I have when the sizes are almost the same. But how do you buy headers for such a tight place? Also the 351 puts me in the 300 hp range easy with aftermarket heads. At lease to I guess.
Cam question I just got my engine today, 302 long block, Clevite77 bearings throughout, going to order the Comp cam package with lifters and pushrods. I'll be running a Torker 289 intake I already have, with a Holley 650 with vacuum secondaries. Going to take the stock heads and have screw in studs and some mild port work done. Now the question what would be the best cam profile to use with this combo.? I would like a good lope and if I have to upgrade my heads later I can. How about a 270/280 split duration? or could I go bigger, I plan on buying a stall when I get my tranny rebuilt in the next 6 months. Also will there be a problem hooking up my trans kickdown to the twisted carb mount on this intake? or is there a kit? or is this a good intake to use? I picked it up for 20.00 at a swap meet.
Ya know Dave, you're right. I was under the impression that Edelbrock had different specs for their 302 rpm cams vs. their 351 cams, but in looking in their catalog, the specs are exactly the same. That surprises me, as 351s and 302 are fairly different in how they respond to mods. That being said, a lot of converters are 1800 stock anyway, so if you have the right gears, I think you could get away with it.
You absolutely STOLE that intake! Man they suck! I'll cover your 20, just send it to me! J/K That is the best street intake ever made for a mild/moderate SBF. Use it! You are on the right track with the cam IMO, but you should have a converter for the one you listed. You might have to put it in neutral every time you stop until you do the converter though. I ran a 228/235 split in my SBF, it was a 4 speed, but you could tell it would not work with an auto. Besides being slightly over the line size-wise, the split duration causes a rough idle quality too, so it was too much chaos for an auto at idle. The car rocks side to side real nice at idle though... Dave
Yes. But I am sure it depends on the intake you use, as in any other car. Dave Btw: Swap headers are available (you asked in another thread), but it is tight. Some guys have used the generic 302 header, but again, it's tight and a pipe or 2 needed 'denting'. You don't have to shave the towers for a 351 swap, but it looks like it would help ALOT from the pics I have seen. I used a Cleveland with stock towers, shaving would have helped access to plugs and such.
Descided on a cam 302 40 over with flat top TRW pistons Gasket matched heads Torker 289 intake (gasket matched) Holley 650 Vac. 2nds MSD 6AL and Blaster coil and the cam: Duration at .006 Lift:Intake 270°Exhaust 280°CenterlinesDuration at .050 Lift:Intake 204°Exhaust 214°Lobe Separation: 112°Lift at Cam:Intake .280Exhaust .295Intake Centerline: 107°Lift at Valve:Intake .448Exhaust .472Timing at .050 Lift:Open CloseIntake5° ATDC29° ABDCExhaust44° BBDC10° BTDC What do the experts think? will this give a descent lope, do I still need a stall with this? This is the one the guy at Edelbrock recomended.
stock converter will be fine. Your duration is well within limits and the lobe separation will give a good idle with decent vacuum. How much lope? Not that much but probably noticeable when compared to stock.
Those durations at .050" are low compared to the advertised duration. This is an RV cam. You will hear little to no lope. You will need to get over 215 @ .050" and no higher than 110 LSA to get a noticeable idle. For example, a 212 duration, 110 LSA cam was totally smooth in a 302 of mine. A 218/110 was noticable, but not prominent, and used a stock verter just fine. Dave
I notice you have a CC 260 cam now... That cam is larger and has more lope potential than the one you sample.
