I'm about to overhaul my engine it's a '66 289 bored .030 over. I rebuilt it a year and a half ago but due to either a improper brake in or from some crappy cylinder heads I got from PAW. It now uses oil and there is a knock on piston 3. anyway I'm getting a price list together on summit and right now it stands just shy of $700 which is pretty close to what I paid to rebuild the thing... anyway I know I will not know what I need exactly untill I get in there but what I'm trying to decide is am I realy going to have to replace my cam bearings and should I go with performance of factory replacement and do I need to replace my timing chain set? I have a double roller chain set on it right now... Wal-Mart dosen't pay me enuff to do what I like and need to do... anyway any oppenions might help. thanks
Your cam bearing should be fine, if you didn't break any thaing that would add metal particals into the oil. Timing chain should be ok also. Save your money (a little every week) and if you can, then wait until you get enough$$ to do the job right. IF you have to rebuild twice it costs twice as much. Good Luck. Russ
For $900 you can make it a 347 w/new forged pistons, rods, crank, bearings and rings included. http://www.cprparts.com/specials.html
If its got a knock on #3, you have probably spun a rod bearing. If so, you will have to have the crank turned or replaced with another one. If rod is streched, it will also need to be replaced. Cam bearings and timing chain should be okay but check for imbedded particles on the bearings.
about that 347 stroker I have 53cc heads which would give me around 14:1 compression cant afford that kind of gas for a daily driver. is it posible that I gouged my cam lobe? would it be worth it to put ARP rod bolts and main studs on an engine with a 1500 to 6500 rpm power band (6500 redline) and I hope will make between 300 to 350 hp?
about that 347 stroker... You can pick whatever pistons you need. I'm running the 14 cc dished, with my 60 cc heads equals 9.2:1 CR (total of 74 cc piston and head). If you would run the 20 cc dished pistons with your 53 cc heads that's about what your CR would be too (total of 73 cc piston and head). If you notice they calculate CR with 0 deck height. Most 302s the piston sits at least .019 down in the hole.
I'm trying to keep my costs down... just out of curiosity what all was in the kit? block(flat tappet or roller) crank, rods, pistons for shore did it also have bearings, fasteners, or anything else? thanks
Just what is listed at the link I provided; crank, rods, forged Probe pistons, Perfect Circle rings, Clevite 77 main and rod bearings. I got the cast steel crank. The rods were CNC profiled, shot peened and have 3/8" ARP bolts.
They built a 347 stroker for a Maverick in the latest Race Pages magazine. The kit cost $733 and with flex plate, balancer, balancing, tax and everything it was $860 or so from Powerhouse. The motor was going to be a 600Hp engine with nitrous. It is a great article with lots of details about machining the block, choosing a cam and info on heads. Also, don't forget you will need to add the cost of machining your block. I don't know much about this stuff, just learning, but I thought it was a cool article (about a Maverick too!!). Good luck. -Erick
I'm also changing my cam and am trying to decide what to get... I have a desktop dyno program which helps a little but it still takes me forever and it is not exactly acurate... but it does give me a general idea... ok... I have a 289 bored .030 over with a edelbrock performer RPM Air-Gap intake... 600cfm 4bbl carb... 53cc heads with 1.84intake 1.46exhaust with the runners matched and "D" ground (some grinding on the top of the runner to give it abit of a curve instead of it being flat)... hooker compition headers... I'm going to add a 1700rpm stall converter... I curently have a comp cams high energy 268H which is nice but I would like more torque and power though... I set my redline to 6500 and I don't plan on going there often if ever... it's a daily driver and of corse a little bit of racing and hotroding any suggestions would be apreciated.
isnt it true that a 347 stroker doesnt last vey long because it is taking a 302 block to the extremes? thats why i stuck with doing a good rebuild on the 302 block i had...i know that there are some things i will be doing differently next time i do a block just curious thats all
taking a 302 block to the extremes... There are literaly thousands of 347s running around in daily drivers now. You give the block the same .030 overbore as most do when rebuilding a 302. There used to be a concern about the piston pin intersecting the oil ring land but now there are shorter rods (3.815" vs 3.4") and matching pistons available that address that problem. A lot of racers still use the 3.4" rods 'cause they don't care about oil consumption on a race engine. Street motors use the short rods. The other issue was cylinder wall side loading, the long rod pushing at an angle against the outside cylinder wall. Now the piston manufacturers offset the piston pin away from the outside wall to more evenly distribute the load. A properly built 347 should last as long as a 302.
I'm trying to pull my engine at this moment and I'm stuck. I have the hooker compitition headers btw. I can't get the engine out... I have it down to a longblock and when I try to get it out it wedges between the headers... then I decided to try and remove the heads ... *HAH* not happening... they are pinning between the alignment pin and the header... how do I do this?!?!?!..... sorry i'm really tired been at it for 9hrs straight...
