It this a dry sump? Why is there 2 oil filters? Is this a performance gain? Can this be applied to a 302 in the Comet. If this is not a dry sump system, then what is a dry sump system & whats the benefit of one?
whos know if that motor in the photo is a dry sump.. kinda hard to see in the photos... however you can also do that same set up with any motor. it a relocation kit.. double the filtering.
I am no expert at oiling systems, but I don't think you can tell if it is dry sump or not by this picture. That would have to do with the oil pan shape and size, I think. But, it appears that this guy has two inline oil filters, externally mounted. I have been wanting to do a mount out on the fender to get it away from the motor and more easily accessible during oil changes. Also, when you do this, the mount can accept larger filters, allowing more oil in the system, leading to longer oil life, better filtration, and cooler oil temps. Most guys get one that accepts the Fram PH1 (I think that is the big one) that looks like a tall coffee can. It is huge. Other brands make a large one that fits in it's place. Personally, I buy the biggest and longest Motorcraft that will fit on all my cars, even if it is not the one that "the book" calls for. I usually have to add 1/2 qt extra oil.
I Had That On My Ranger With A 302 You Can Not Run A Oil Filter The Fram Was In The Way I Ran That With 2 2qt Oil Filters Easy To Change Oil
A dry sump stores the oil in a location other than the pan. It allows you to run a larger volume of oil for the above mentioned reasons. For instance you need to run 12 quarts to get the proper cooling (oil is used to cool as much as to lubricate), but your pan only holds 8 quarts and you can't make it any bigger for packaging reasons. Dry sumps also have less parasitic losses generally.
No way to tell from that pic. but id put money on it not being dry sump if its a car a dry sump system usually has a seperate oil tank instead of a deep pan at the bottome of the engine. the oil goes from the motor to the tank and is pumped back in, usually with an electric pump. they prevent sloshing(no need for windage tray) and are also good to keep oil feeding to the engine under sustained extreme G forces and operation angles (think motorcycle or stunt airplane). dont know that the cost to change over would be worth the effort on our cars.
Under normal oil change intervals, there's no advantage in dual filters. A dry sump system has an external oil pump driven off the front of the crank and a special pan with pickup-return/feed hoses plumbed to the external oil pump. That should be easy to see. Yes there is a power gain from dry sumps system but it is very expensive for a street car to use.
So the extra belt on the front goes to a oil pump right? And you can relocate the oil filters without having a dry sump. I would like to set this up but I wasn't for sure if it was just for looks.
You might wanna check with your "Track Tech Official" (drag racing) before making the modification. Two years ago (the last time I checked), Sealy drag strip did not allow external oil filters in Street Class (at least). I think the main reason was that it (the adding of external connections) inherently creates more potential leak paths, which in turn, creates more opportunities for "oil downs" on the track. They did allow the faster classes to run external though. Maybe they felt more comfortable with a $100,000.00 race car ensuring all the connections are done right (proper AN fittings and that they are checked frequently for tightness) compared to someone who's running a shade-tree racer. Food for thought.
Rick, thanks for the warning. I will hold that off a while until I find out if I can do it. Makes sense. My $5000 car has mostly hose clamps, and lots of places for fluids to begin leaking. Maybe that is why I do such wonderful burnouts...I am actually just peeling out over my own oil, trans fluid, and coolant
with the dual remote filters, it increases your total oil capacity by 3 qt and provides a little more cooling. I have it on the 77.
I would say it is definitely a dry sump system. First there is the pump and what sure looks like a dry sump tank mounted right over the pump. The car has a manual rack so it's not a steering pump and it is to small to be a vacuum pump. Another advantage of a dry sump system is greater ring sealing due to higher pan vacuum.
definetly a dry sump, probably a SBC or BBC. Looks like a Weaver pump & drive...if I had to guess. You don't see the tank in that photo, but I would say that it's probably either somewhere else in the engine compartment or somewhere in the driver's area (usually behind the seat). I wouldn't mind having a dry sump on mine. Too bad the stuff costs a fortune. The pumps are usually around $1200 (for a good one--one worth having), plus all the lines, filters, block mods, tank, pan....etc. You can easily invest $2500 in oiling systems alone when it comes to dry sump. Easily! In a door car, it's tough to get it all set up right because there isn't all that much room in the engine compartment. If I really wanted to do it, I'd use a KSE front cover, then drive the fuel pump off of the camshaft and oil pump off of the crank (directly). No damper. That's pretty much the way sprint cars are set up.
I have a 77 Comet. I would like to know more about them. Do you have a link or the company that you got yours from. Do you have any bad things to say about them?
