Twin-rail trailers vs. full decks

This is Maverick-related, as I need to purchase a trailer when I return home for hauling the car around during major projects and the occasional long trip in the summer.

I've been looking at aluminum and steel twin-rail and full deck trailers.

Currahee, Anderson, Featherlite, and a few other brands.

I know I want two 3500# brake axles, removeable or flip down fenders, probably 18' plus a 2' dovetail, ramp storage, winch location, etc.

I'll be towing with my '95 F-150, which has been lowered in the rear.

Is any particularly happy with their trailer? Any brands to avoid? Thoughts and/or suggestions?

 

Bruce,
Here are a few simple, but key items to look for.

Will the doors open over the fenders? As the trailer deck gets lower, the fenders get higher, relative to the deck. A lower deck keeps drag down, especially behind a lowered truck. It also make loading much easier and ramps shorter.

Will the truck tailgate open without hitting the trailer jack?

Do you plan on using it for uses other than car hauling? (open vs. full deck)

Tongue length. A longer tongue makes more a more stable trailer, and makes backing up into tight spaces easier. The down side is the additional length for parking & storage.

Make sure it has tie-downs placed in such a way that you can use conventional ratchet straps. Some trailers have stake pocket-type channels welded on which work OK for hauling junk with chains, but that's about it.

Avoid the wood decks and mobile home axles!

 

I ave a suggestion if you get a trailer: change your signature! LOL! Just kidding. I can't think of a reason not to get the full deck. I have a twin rail and I filled in the center with 2 by lumber right after I got it because we also haul atv's and it was before I bought a landscape trailer for them. But I've never had a moment when I wished the wood wasn't there.

 

I know I gave you some tips Bruce when I was there, but I would add:

- Brakes on BOTH axles. Some trailers out there don't have brakes at all, and some have brakes on only one axle. I always come down on the side of safety, so brakes on both axles.

- A spare tire mount is convenient. That way you know the spare is ALWAYS with you.

- A weight distribution hitch (the hitch I was using when I was there) is a must, especially with what your tow vehicle is.

 

Thanks guys! And John, I knew someone would pipe up over my sig. Maybe I'll change it...

Hey Jack, what's the tongue length on your trailer?

 

Oh, and if anyone has brand suggestions, I'm all ears!

 

Over the past 30 years I've had a few open trailers..........could never afford a closed trailer...................and have had 2 Carson Trailers............they are affordable and good. I tow my car with a Dodge Ram 1500 and installed a frame hitch.........complete hitch going from one side of the frame to other.
On late model Dodge trucks you can put just a small cross member behind the license..............which I didn't like. I also put a sway bar on the rear of the truck, and use a weight distribution system. With a lowered truck (mine is only lowered 2") they become very important not to mention it makes it easier to tow on the highway.
Mine current trailer is only 16' and is open in the center.......which I really like. Also, think about putting an electric winch up front...........just makes it much easier to load the car.
I originally bought the trailer new with brakes on only one axle (each is 3500lb) and it was a bear to bring to stop in a hurry..........it actually felt like the trailer was pushing the truck............I put brakes on the other axle and it make 150% difference in stopping. Also, when you get a brake controller think about one that uses inertia stopping so you don't have to do anything except brake with the truck..............can't remember the brand.

 

H&H makes a good looking trailers, expensive though.
Mine is locally made, 18ft full deck, full brakes, and a spare. I bought it new for less than 3 grand.
Having one with a "beaver tail" or whatever it's called, makes loading easy.

 

One other thing is weight, another reason I got the twin rail type with open center. I bought mine brand new for under $2k, spent $200 to add the brakes to the second axle, $75 for a used box and $250 for 10k winch, $200 for weight distribution system..........total of $2525.00. It also has a 4' "dove tail".

http://www.carsontrailer.com/subs/c...ifornia-car-hauler/california-car-hauler.html

 

I've used an open trailer at a time during my stock car days and, once I stepped off into that open area, I sure wished we had a full deck trailer - 15 years later I bought this trailer off of the original owner and it's in my driveway waiting for a full restore with the addition of the full deck

 

How about a picture of the trailer?????????????????

 

I paid $1500 for my trailer about 7 years ago now and havent had to do anything other than replace the floor a couple times (2by6's) and put brakes on it once. otherwise wiring gives me trouble because it gets snagged on junk from hanging too low.

I use it for everything from moving my comet to hauling scrap metal and appliances for work REGULARLY an open trailer is only good for hauling a car and nothing else. a full deck trailer you can haul anything that will fit.

my trailer is a bullit proof 2000 16 foot carson rated for 7000 pounds with a 4 foot dove tail I also have a warren 8000pound winch in the bottom of the tool box I just cut a hole in the back of the box and bolted a roller in the box itself and the winch is welded to a frame that bolts to the frame of the trailer
Ive hauled a pay load of 9000 pounds on this trailer and it didnt feel like it was half that much



Ive been wishing I had a full deck tilt trailer for years now. I could still use it as I do the one I have but when I loaded my comet all I have to do is let the trailer tilt then drive it up or pull it up

 

I'm not a fan of brakes on both axles because in a panic situation if all 4 wheels lock up on your trailer, it will try to pass you. Keeping one set free rolling will help keep the trailer tracking straight. I know it saved my butt when coming back from Missouri one winter When I was going down the steep grades in a blizzard a couple of times the trailer tried to beat me down to the bottom. I was able to tap the brake controller and get it back in line. If I had brakes on both axles, it would have just kept going. JMO. I wonder if thats why tractor trailers jackknife.

 

Here how I did my winch.

I have a hitch receiver welded vertically at the front of my trailer. I had a hole cut in the floor, slid the receiver in the hole and welded to the top of the trailer frame.

The winch is mounted on a mount that goes into ther receiver.

The winch sets up nice and high and the cable never touches the trailer. Plus...the winch is removable so it never gets rained on or stolen.

#4500 lb winch. It will pull a non roller Maverick right up on the trailer with all 4 wheels a squelin' like a pig!! I have the pulley and hook on there for when I get home I can run the cable under the car, hook the pulley to a sturdy pole (like a basketball goal post or a telephone pole) and run the cable back to the cars rear axle. That way....without moving the winch....I can now pull a car OFF the trailer. 50' of cable on the winch. About a 12' hand held winch control (it is laying on the fender of the trailer).