what does everybody torque there stut rods down too???? i did 80 ibs just like the book said is it wrong????? and i just ruined the metal tube in the middle this was a new set from autokrafters and im using a new torque wrench i dont understand what the hell im doing wrong
No idea. I torqued mine by "feel", making sure they were even on both sides. No problems at all. You turn them until they stop. You obviously cannnot turn them past the point of the sleeve, or damage occurs. Once the nut stops against the inner sleeve, you're done. You don't need a torque wrench...
80 ft lbs is right in the middle of the Ford shop manual spec (60-90 ft lbs) and the bottom end of the Chiltons spec (80-115 ft lbs), so at 80 you should have been fine. Are you sure all 4 pieces and both adjusting nuts were in place? In that picture, it looks like the bushing retainer is right on the frame - where is the back bushing? Eric J
trust me it was all correct when i torq it...the real bushing and washer are there ...its hard to see
i still have the original nut on the strut, it turns on and off with the turn of my finger i thought they were locknuts?
Man - if everything was where it is supposed to be, I don't see how it could have crushed like that. Here is a couple of diagrams of the set up (for those reading this thread that don't know what were talking about).
that must be an original type set up., its showing 1 sleeve on each side, all aftermarket ones....have just 1 sleeve in the middle between the two washers...hmmmm
Your set up definatly looks like something is missing. I've never seen that much rod sticking out the front. You'd have some bodacious caster with it like that.
since we are on this subject: If a strut rod is slightly bent...can it be straightened? Can it be aligned successfully even with a slight bend?
I believe the factory version had 2 sleeves but one slid into the other making it the same length as the aftermarket replacement piece. I used an aftermarket kit and it worked out ok From the picture the setup does not look right, the sleeve aligns the bushings thru the frame and really should not have been contacted by the large retaining washers that much. The bushings should not compress enough to allow it??
Yes, but why bother? they are real easy to come by. If you do decide to straighten it, use a press and do it cold. I would only try to straighten it if it were very minor. Also if the bend is slight, since the strut rod cannot rotate, it will be able to be aligned.
I'm having the problem where I can't get the front adjustment nut of the the strut rod to come off. Do I have to worry about putting too much pressure on it and bending the rod or maybe there is a trick to this that I don't know about? I'm trying to replace my strut rod bushings....I already have the lower control arm off if that is a problem. the strut rod is just hanging on it's own. Couldn't find anything on the forums about this.
Wow old post. Put the lower control arms on and re-attach strut rods to em.Re-install spindles... then bust the nut loose(no flopping strut rod that way)Those nuts can be a bear to remove.
sorry, I always try to do a search first and most times wind up continuing a thread rather than starting a new one. So my concern with re-attaching the strut rod to the lower arm before trying to break it was that I might put too much stress on, or fatigue my strut rod. I don't have to worry about this? I don't know much about suspensions (or anything really haha), but you read alot on here about people's strut rods cracking or breaking.
