So here are my 2 options, I have an idea but wanted to see what people here recommend and if there are any tips as to what I should ask or need to know. Option 1 8" labor to build the diff is 252.00 labor to remove old diff and install new diff 168.00 3.25 gearset 244.00 bearings + install kit 154.00 auburn pro posi 474.00 willwood disk brakes with parking brake 648.00 oil, sealant, loctite. etc 50.00 parking brake cable kit 114.00 --------- total $2104.00 (I will have to provide the rear end ~$250) Option 2 9" $650 - 9" Housing/Axle Package (Maverick) - Axles, Axle Bearings, Wheel Studs, & Retainers - 31 Spline, 5 on 4-1/2" Bolt Pattern, 1/2" Studs $820 - Center Section (Assembled) - New 31 Spline Trac-Lock Posi - New Motive Performance Gears (3.25 Ratio) - New Timken USA Bearings $369 - 11" Disc Brake Kit w/ Parking Brake ($239 w/out Parking Brake) ----------------------------------------------------- $1839 - TOTAL
There would be no question as to which option i would take. My only question would be is this a stock 9 inch pumpkin? If so why not upgrade to a 9+. Also there is only one automatic locker (posi) and it goes by the name DETROIT LOCKER. The true track as well as the auburn pro are LIMITED SLIP. I will say the true track or track loc is the better choice than the auburn pro. The auburn pro uses a tapered cone that wedges itself into the carrier, When its worn out you will only have the choice to throw it away. As always this is just my opinion.
I think it's a lot to spend overall for the rear but I don't wanna wait for it to die on me and I only have an 8" 4 lug right now. I would like to take the car to the track occasionally but it I will be driving it a lot too on the road/freeway.
Why worry about it? Are you pushing 300HP? People have been running 8" rear ends for years, their stronger than most people think. Change the gears, swap out the axles, and stay with the drums.
No not even close. It's just one of the projects I feel like I wanna tackle. And I need to be done with the 4 lugs in the back.
Should be easy to find a complete rear end is the Pick-A-Part yards, I'd kill to have the kinda wrecking yards you guys have out there. Or find someone to find you one, if you don't have the time? I've got 2 here, and I'd give you one if you were closer.
I got it!! Got an 8" 5 lug from a 74 mav for $250. This dude was gonna but it in a t-bucket but he changed his mind.
Yes they are!!! My father ran them behind stick shifted 427/428 Weight is thy enemy The real issue with them is the weak bolts let the bearing caps push back. This just shatters the gears..... A set of ARP bolts alone will make them worthy of 400 hp. My father would destroy one every year like clock work. Set up right,but still being power shifted with slicks in a Fairlane should be a testament to how strong they really are
I think The real issue is WEAK caps, Where they are drilled for the lock bolt is where they bust nearly everytime. If someone would machine some billet caps i would think they would take a lot more abuse.But this is not feasible because the housings were machined as a complete unit. I have also saw the Factory 9 inch break in the same place, That's why most aftermarket housings use a different method of holding the adjuster from turning.
After installing better bolts.....my father would destroy the frt snoot. The pumpkin would crack at the pinion support.....Never had an issue with caps...not saying it wasn't isn't an issue....
