question on fabricated valve covers

got a question for any of you that have these?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/22099487133...X:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_2299wt_1165

have you had any leaking problems? given this one uses a billet rail and should solve most leaking issues unlike stamped steal ones. but was just wondering since you also can't use studs on these (which helps prevent leaking as well) and it uses those long bolts.... have any of you had leaking issues?

my other alternative are these below and i know my answer if i buy these since these mount like the standard ones.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/17082028033...X:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_3562wt_1398

personally i like the first ones above a tad better.

thanks in advance.

 

I have the first set posted and used a couple different sets of gaskets before I found a set that kept them from leaking, I know use the Felpro Printoseal gaskets with the metal rings in bolt holes to keep from over torqueing and smashing gasket and seem to be doing a good job.

I had one of the cheaper set of machined valve covers before with the flimsy rails and could not keep them from leaking even after using rtv on both valve cover and head rail surface.

I like the second set you posted but like you I like the first set better

 

Not a fan of either. Toom much exposed ugly welds. If I had to choose I'd go with the second set. They look less cheap and homemade.

 

mo had a set on his. he had constant leaking problems with them. he only used the felpro rubber gaskets that have the metal core. they may work better with other types of gaskets. we still have them and may just try the gaskets mike referenced.

 

Looks to be more room in the second set.

 

I had the first set...no leaking problems...

 

X2.! Never saw the attraction to that type myself. Much rather have a nice cast pair myself.

 

This is what I was thinking..
The factory ones seem to work for alot of folks.

 

I bought some like the second picture, but couldn't get them to fit as they hit the master cylinder...............yes, you can clearance cut them, but I wanted something to take off and on easily.
I have seen a lot of racers use this type because they can use roller rockers with girdles and still have clearance.
I currently use the ones I got free when I bought my MoTown block, and they are cast aluminum like the FMS ones. I just ground the bosses down for the breather plates so they would clear my girdles. I also use studs and the blue rubber/w steel center Felpro and haven't had any issues.
Personally, I think chromed aluminum looks cheap, I'd rather see polished aluminum............nothing beats a nice set of shinny valve covers....IMHO

 

One of my car has these on them now.



To be honest I am done with the Ford logo on anything to be honest. They were cool when they first came out but everyone has them now.

The other has these



neither have had leaking problems but then again I have studs and the newer gaskets on them. in fact I don’t use anything but the newer type of gaskets.

I like both the top one just keeps to give it that clean line look. Yes I know about the welds but really that kind of “homemade” look is a lot hard to make then some cheap stamped steal one. The bottom one looks nicer I agree but I don’t like how they have the same old indentions for the standard bolts.

I guess we will see leaning towards the second ones though.

Yep I would get the Printoseal ones if pulled them. The ones above have billet rails so they say. I wouldn’t get anything else.

factory ones, they don’t have enough clearance for rollers. As for cast, I am over that look, it doesn’t separate your self from others. That’s just me, but IMO you see it on everything.

Hum what master cylinder where you using? Was it one with a power booster or something?

But yes you are correct why people use these it is more of a clearance issue for girdle etc. so in some case you can give that “racer” or larger engine look to the engine compartment for those who do not really have it.

As for Polished Aluminum I am really over that stage. I have had everything I could polished before under hood of three different cars. My newer car I am working on now…. forget it no more polished aluminum. Too hard to take care of too hard to keep not scratched. Everything I do know is chromed now and if you looking at a “show car” polished alum doesn’t cut it. Chrome will always win hands down. Not to mention good chroming cost about 10xs the mount of anyone just polishing stuff. Now if you can have polished alum and have it look like it does right after you polish it then YES! But that will never stay that way. Wheels are about the only thing I would keep polished and not chrome these days.

 

I'm not a ...polished...person. I have all my...aluminum (valve covers, radiators) painted...

 

The problem with polished aluminum is not as much a problem of the polish but the quality of the aluminum. Jeff Smith, who has polished everything on a riddler winner, can make cast look like chrome but in time it won't hold it, but if he polishes billet aluminum it will hold the polish for along time.

I agree Derrick, low maint is the key to enjoying life and maintaining aluminum under the hood is not low maint.

 

that's why i paint...as you say, all of it will "polish" but to a different luster...
I also have my aluminum intakes powdercoated...they are more resistant to gas staines...
the E-water pump in the second pic. I posted, is Billit so i left it unpainted...

 

Shouldn't that say "Built For" ?? Or was that a little Georgia slang??

 

nope and nope..Coupe Performance did the "build" and the "build" was for me...