have installed the rear fram rails and the prebent jegs roll cage. the only bend i made is right where the seatbars go into the mainbar for seat clearence. i wanted to keep the factory buckets. the seatsaver bars in the back are sold seperatly but worked very well. they are nowhere near your head. i dropped the seat bars to clear the armrest on the door and to make it easier to get in the back seat. notice how the bars go in the trunk? i did that for head room and for the fact i didnt want them to interfear with the package try or the trunk hinges (yes they work!!) i pushed out the main bar on the floor to make clearence for the quarter trim panel. did the same with the front bars for the kickpanel. won thave to trim anything except maybe the trim the goes along the rear deck panel and the headliner. havent tried it because it is packed away in storage for now, but if i do it will be very little. let me know what you think
The only thing I see that could cause you a problem is how low your front or seat bar is. I know I tried the same thing with my car and was caught my tech at 2 different tracks. I got to race but was told to change it to NHRA requirements before I returned to the track, I even got caught at my home track and it was suggested that I correct my easy to get in to roll cage. Now if you are not planning on your car being faster then 11.99 for the 1/4 and I think 7.50 for the 1/8 mile then just skip over everything I justed typed because it doesn't matter. But it looks good so far and you know you saves a lot of money doing it yourself. Good luck with your project. Terry
At the rear of the car between the rear frame rails (behind where the shackle bolts in) are you going to weld a piece across there to tie the two rails together?
bossmav.....yea i know your right about the bars but i dont plan to race it, i am going to use it for a pump gas street car is about it i may take it to the track just to see what it does sometime that will be about it. i just know that these unibody cars twist like crazy with the big motors and dont want the to happen. plus it looks cool as helll with a cage craig.......the tank crossmember is pretty solid across there except for the ends i decided that it wouldnt be a problem if i fixed the ends of it, i am trying to make it look stock as possible without tearing up too much
looks real good. That is how I wanted mine to look like, as stock as possible. I wanted to run the rear bars through the same place an the rear deck too. Only difference I need is NHRA legal side bars because I will go lower than 11.99. Too bad you don't live close to me I would pay you to do mine because there is no way I can do stuff like that. I was quoted $700 from a shop to make mine.
well if you can weld it in or get someone else to you can buy the rollcage prebent for the maverick from jegs for about 200.00
and it is already made to go through the rear deck like yours? and everything is pre- notched? I am just now learning to weld by making work benches, maybe with enough practice I will be able to weld in a cage.
I especially like the rear tubes. It really keeps the space open for a usable back seat. I've seen tubes going through the speaker holes before and it just really kills the headroom for a rear seat. Cleaver