Oil pan gasket installation tips

Discussion in 'Technical' started by gdemopesq, Jun 17, 2009.

  1. gdemopesq

    gdemopesq MOTOR CITY MAV

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    When I rebuilt my motor and had the engine on the stand it was real easy to install the oil pan gasket. Problem I had one tiny leak. So a few months ago I installed a $40 one piece and my leak was worse.

    I know the basics of tightening the pan bolts across from each other, moving outwards from the center. What should I do to avoid leaks again? I am using the one piece gasket again. Should I use RTV at all? What are your tips?

    Thanks
     
    Last edited: Jun 17, 2009
    gdemopesq, Jun 17, 2009
    #1
  2. rthomas771

    rthomas771 Member

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    I used Permatex #2 to hold the gasket in place. IF there is a next time...I'm gonna use the 4 piece gasket. Did you go back and tighten the bolts again?
     
    rthomas771, Jun 17, 2009
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  3. 71gold

    71gold Frank Cooper Supporting Member

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    when i did the... one piece ...i used set screws to hold it in place.
    i also put sealer in the corner of the front and rear main caps.:tiphat:

    ...Frank...
     
    71gold, Jun 17, 2009
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  4. don graham

    don graham MCG State Rep

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    Make sure you don't overtighten the bolts. They only take about 15 pounds of torque. More and you'll squeeze the gaskets out. :)
     
    don graham, Jun 17, 2009
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  5. markso125

    markso125 Member

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    +1 :thumbs2: have not leaked a drop yet, now if I can get that pesky valve cover on my passenger side to quit leaking
     
    markso125, Jun 18, 2009
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  6. baddad457

    baddad457 Member

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    You cannot overtighten the one piece gasket, it's got a steel core. You DO need to use the factory pan rail stiffeners with it though. Use these, with the factory bolts and a dab of sealer in the corners of the main caps and you'll have no leaks.
     
    baddad457, Jun 18, 2009
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  7. ratio411

    ratio411 Member

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    Rail stiffeners don't look like they would work the old style pan.:huh:
    I thought about doing that myself when I started using one piece gaskets. The pan rail is ribbed on the old pans. The stiffeners are meant for a flat rail. I didn't do it and all my cars are dry that have the one piece gaskets.


    Anyway...
    When you look at the rail of the pan, or any sheet metal cover/pan, you will usually see the bolt holes crowned upward towards the gasket. You have to take a hammer and wood, or flat surface, and knock the bolt holes back to flat with the rest of the pan. Then do not overtighten, or you will bow the bolt holes right back.

    This is a common problem with valve covers, oil pans, tranny pans, etc...
    Flatten the bolt holes, don't overtighten.... = no leaks.
     
    ratio411, Jun 18, 2009
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  8. Scotty P

    Scotty P Member

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    I vote for the dimples (cronwned bolt holes) Ratio mentions. That is what caused me a few nights of changing vavle cover gaskets!
     
    Scotty P, Jun 18, 2009
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  9. mavdog71

    mavdog71 Member

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    If you are using the cork style gasket ? If the cork is dry soak in hot water to rehydrate the cork.

    Jay
     
    mavdog71, Jun 18, 2009
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  10. baddad457

    baddad457 Member

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    I used the stiffeners with my front sump pan. No problems there. There are also two separate one piece gaskets for front and rear sump pans (in Felpro) I used the correct one for the pan I'm using.
     
    baddad457, Jun 19, 2009
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