Before I get much further, any good fitting headers for a 351? Auto right now, planning on swapping for a stick eventually, custom clutch setup to work around whatever headers I get. I have Hooker Super Comps, and once I move the headers up about one inch, I don't think they'll clear.
Hooker has the only large tube swap headers. 1 3/4" primarys. But they are listed only for a 65-66 Stang. They work in the Maverick with some modding. Hedman and Tubular make 1 1/2" primary swap headers. Again they are listed for the 65-66 Stangs for sure, but I think they list also Maverick/Comet. They supposedly fit without mods. Tower shaving is not a must, but it would sure make your life easier in many ways. Dave
Grabber71 put 302 headers on his 351. Didn't have to touch the shock towers. He says changing plugs is a snap, when you remove the valve covers.....
Didn't someone run Hooker Super Comps? That is what I have now... I'm kinda pressed for time as I have to decide whether to go for the 351 or not within the next few days. If I have to buy headers, I'll deal with it, as long as they work without a major rework.
I've been following the 351w swap with the factory front end for a long time. I cannot remember ever seeing a post on what headers actually fit with no modifications either to the headers themselves or the shock towers. It IS easier to go with a 302....but the torque of the 351w is nice to have, IF you can find the headers to make it work. Tubular Automotive had some small 1 1/2" tube headers that supposedly "bolt on" with no mods...but they're small and depending on what you have in mind for the 351w, it just might work. For us hot rodders that will eventually upgrade to a larger, more powerful combo, the 1 1/2" tubes are a choke. But for a mild combo, they'd work fine. So....anyone out there want to give a definite answer as to which headers will work?
I can deal with some modifications, but I need a part number that can be modified without negating the headers. Bottom line, I guess I've read enough to know it can be done... I'm not looking too serious, 270/280 duration, maybe 290 if I get aluminum heads before I finish the car... I'd prefer to have at least the same size I have now, 1 5/8. My goal is close to 400lbs torque and 300hp.
Several companies make FE into Maverick headers. You can get them with huge tubes too. There was a set on ebay not too long ago. Back to the 351w swap: One guy used his basic 1 5/8" 302 headers, but had to section out and repipe a couple of tubes. Would be just fine I suppose, but he put crimp bent pipes back in the headers. Mandrel bends would be a must IMO. I can't really imagine 302 headers working without major surgery or seriously crimped pipe for clearance. You can just see that there is no room to go wider on the driver's side. Sounds like you could use the Tubular headers just fine. Hedmans might be cheaper. Tubular headers come as 8 individual tubes so they should bolt in easy. I have had a few sets of Tubular headers and thought they were well made.
I agree, I'd want mandrel bent tubes. As far as huge FE tubes... I already have 1 7/8 ones so thats big enough. haha. Im sure "doctoring" any 302/351 header would be better than starting from scratch. I've seen that done and it looked like a PITA
I plan on working on the shock towers, as long as there is a chance for the headers. Andy, if you get the FE figured out, lemme know... I've got one sitting in the woods behind my aunt's place... still in the LTD.
If I do my FE swap, it'll be w/ a mustang II front end. I love those FE's built one for my 66 F-100 and loved it
351 is still sitting. I've got a ways to go before header choices, I just prefer to have as much information as early as possible... I work on computers for a living, I tend to like to know exactly what I'm getting into before I start. I never did get a concrete answer on the 351 headers, so I'm leaning more towards building the 302 now...
Power steering adds issues with headers, so manual steering helps. I had gained clearance by using TRW muscle motor mounts for a '70 Mustang that raise the motor up roughly 1". You can change more than just your brand of headers to get the "perfect fit". I reversed the bolts mounting the idler arm so the nuts are on the wheel side, relocated the charcoal canister, updated to a flatter '87 Mustang unit, and put the vacuum canister inside the fender, under the antenna. I did cut back my shock towers, not because my motor wouldn't fit without doing so, but because I didn't want to "kill" myself with simple things like changing plugs. Thinking outside the box makes the impossible possible. Good luck!