After many setbacks and delays I finally feel like I'm getting somewhere.Yesterday was a great day,and I made some real progress by getting the engine back in the Maverick.I've attached some photos because pictures are worth a thousand words. 302 with a Tri-power set up. Relocated the power brake booster( put it where Ford should Have)Custom brackets and modified pedal assembly to work with the relocated booster and new cable clutch set up. Installed a new aluminum radiator with clamp in mounting/rubber isolators. Tilt steering column out of a 72 Mustang. Now all I have to do is finish installing all of the wiring,hoses,distributor exhaust etc. and get this thing on the road.I started all of this last October. Graybeard
Hood clears That was one of my biggest fears,but it fits with about 1/4" clearance between the top of the air filter and a horizontal brace that supports the hood. I am trying to download some bigger pictures.I am using the infra whatever software but I can't seem to get the size right.Does anyone know what size I should be shooting for? Let me try again
I'm interested in where you got the radiator clamps, and what you used for the bottom of it. I'm doing that swap now.
Congratulations! I know how good it feels to finally make a milestone in a project that takes a while (my project = 3-1/2 years to date). Good luck with the rest of the install. That looks great too, btw.
I used a master cylinder and booster from a 1975 Maverick.This car is a 1970 so it was originally set up with 4-lug manual drum brakes all around (scary stuff with the way people drive nowdays)I converted the front to Granada spindles and disc brakes and swapped out the rear for a 5-lug 8" then bumped up the drum size to 2" X 10" Mustang drums.I custom fabricated a new mounting plate for the booster which was a treat because the booster bolts to the plate then the plate bolts to the firewall / pedal assembly.Once I had all the math figured out I then cut the booster rod and welded (very carefully I might add to keep down the heat)a 3/8" threaded coupling to the rod.I then took the end of the rod I cut and threaded the remaining so I could adjust in or out in the coupling for the final fine tune of stroke.This end has the round eyelet on it that slips over the rod on the side of the brake pedal for attachment.This is the second version of the original idea,in the first version I tried to use a master cylinder from an Aerostar van because it was much shorter.That was a disaster,lets just say without all the details,it won't work.As part of this conversion,I installed a check valve on the rear brake lines to hold back pressure to the wheel cylinders and a manual balancing valve instead of a proportioning valve.The proportioning valve dilemma was just to complicated. The clamps are from a Mustang,I think maybe 71-73.I picked them up at a swap meet for $1.00.They had the rubber still in them and fit the width of the radiator perfect.I drilled two holes in thru the radiator support and cut a spacer out of tubing so I wouldn't bend the support when I tightened them down.The bottom cradle was made from 1/8" thick by 2" wide flat staock from Tractor Supply.I bent two pieces in a U shape just bid enough for the radiator to sit down in.I fabricated another bracket to attach the lower support to the sheetmetal under where the original radiator was bolted.I then lined with closed cell rubber.This lets you sit the radiator down in the support,then clamp from the top.Since I put in an aftermarket aluminum radiator,I didn't want to risk it cracking from stress,which I have had happen when they were bolted directly to the body.The added benefit is once you take off the hoses,its two bolts and you just lift it right out (5 minutes or less). The steering column was fairly straight up.I removed the original and laid them side by side on a table.The bracket that holds them to the dash and pedal assembly is the same.The length is a little longer on the Mustang.I shortened it about 2".You have to completely disassemble to do this.While I had it apart I ordered a bearing from McMaster-Carr that fit the ID of the tube and the OD of the shaft,this gives it added support down at the end.I cut the flange off and rewelded it after I shortened it.While was in there I also replaced the rag joint.All of the wires are the same,its just that they are different colors,so you have to sit down and slowly check/re-check with a meter as you cut and transfer so the original connector can be used.The one added benefit from this swap is that I am 6'2" tall and when I have the seat all the way back,I always feel like I'm reaching for the wheel,I know they have to make cars for an average so they tend to put the wheel close to the dash.Now I feel almost like I'm sitting in a stock car.Did you ever notice how close the steering wheel is located to the driver? Mines not quite that close but it feels perfect.The right cruising posistion,arm on the window ledge.Yeah. One other thing ,while I was changing the steering column I also changed the steering box from a 19:1 manual to a 16:1 power box (still manual).
So just by fabbing the plate it allowed the otherwise stock setup to fit completely behind the shock tower without interference? Interesting ... you gonna start selling these plates? I assume it is using the standard brake pedal setup and not the power disc brake pedal setup?
