I am getting really SERIOUS on this lean

I decided that before I cut any springs, I would swap the front springs and see what difference, if any, it makes on the level stance. Now, I am even more confused.

Before (in inches from fender lip to bottom of hub)

I had 14.5" on driver front, 15.0" passenger front = +.50" lean (high on pass side)
15.5" driver rear, 14.25" passenger rear = -1.25" (low on pass side)

After swapping the springs and driving for about 2 miles, then straight back and forth in my level garage floor:

14.5" driver front, 15.25" pass front = +.75 (high on pass side)
15.5" driver rear, 16.25 pass rear = +.75 (high on pass side)

Overall, I have an improvement of about .5" overall. I would be happy to have it within .25" all around.

Now, which spring is the long one? I am confused by the swapping of the front spring making so much difference at the rear, but not as much at the front

Can anyone who works with suspensions see a pattern and suggest which spring needs shaved? OR, do I just need to do a little shimming at the left rear? OR, should I try a shim at the left rear and just see what it does before I cut anything?

FYI--when I took both springs off, they appeared, and felt pretty darn even, within .25" when I put the high sides (point of the bottom of each spring) together on level floor. Recall that rear springs, shackles, bushings, and shocks are new, front shocks are new, front springs are new heavy "351" springs cut 1-1/2 coil (approx 3-4" drop).

 

Have you confirmed that your rear springs are equal on both sides with the front springs out of the equation?...

 

Not "confirmed" but before I dropped the front back down after doing the rear spring replacement, it was dead even. I guess that is as close to confirmed as I can get.

I would have no problem jacking the front back up and re-confirming it.

 

Well, in that case, I would cut the high front spring in very small increments until the stance is even in both sides. It'll be tedious, but I think the end result will be worth it...unless you wanna buy another set of new springs (which you already implied that you don't). I think 1/4" difference is acceptable; just my opinion...

 

What kind of shocks are you running? If they are gas shocks you may want to take one end loose on each shock and check your measurements.

Also when you tightened the spring bushings was the car in the air or resting on all 4 tires?

 

did you ever check to make sure that that the coils are seated correctly?

 

Have you considered that the body might be twisted?

 

When you replaced the rear springs....Did one side take more effort to install than the other? Start digging there....

 

Gas shocks front and rear, Monroe Gasamatics, or similar.

Springs are seated correctly.

Rear springs installed easily on both sides. Spring bushings tightened while in the air jacked by the frame, springs hanging, rear axle not resting on them (this makes a difference?)

Frame "just might" be twisted. There have been a couple of mild "fender benders" literally just bending the fender at the headlights. One pushed the fender back so it rubbed on the door. Frame appears straight, no "apparent" damage. I know most frame damage you cannot see.

I like the suggestions. Some things I never thought of (like the bushings tightened in the air???). Should I loosen and retorque while under pressure?

 

You car should be set down on the ground with all bolts LOOSE ... tighten all the leaf spring hardware while the car is sitting on the ground with full weight on the suspension ....

 

How do you know your floor is level?? Most garages have some to little slope to them!

 

I kind of go along with the twisted theory. Being a unit body, it would probably be real easy to twist the body some with the torque from the motor, maybe adding up over a period of time. Also possible if the car has had a solid lick to the suspension on one side the subframe could possibly be bent slightly, maybe not enough to see with the naked eye. A good frame shop should be able to tell you if it is.

 

i know my car was wrecked in the front at one time,... new metal and cut and twisted up front.. im not sure to waht extent.. i guess i will know when it wont launch straight anymore.. lol

 

OK, really good suggestions

I feel like I might be getting somewhere now.

I will loosen all the hardware and retorque when under weight. Also, is there a torque specification for the shackle and front bushing bolts...I just "tightened them down" not sure when to stop.

Then, take off the bottom of the shocks, remeasure, and see what's up.

If it is frame bend, can it be fixed, or would it be easier/cheaper to just do some shimming (1/4" +/- shims all around should have me level).

As for the garage floor, for the job at hand, it is level enough. It has a slight, very slight, decline going out the door, but if the front of the car is square to the front of the garage, then my side to side numbers should be close enough to get me within my 1/4" goal.

The tires all have uneven wear which is why I try to do most measurements while off the floor and on stands. Also, all remaining measurements are from hub to fender (fenders being almost perfectly straight, again, close enough to get my 1/4"). These measurements should cancel out the slight tire differences, even though the "appearance" of lean may be worse or better depending on which tire is on which corner. I am only concerned with frame to hub distances at this time, not frame to ground distances...those will correct themselves when I buy new tires.

At least now I have some good potential areas to work on to possibly make some changes (for the better, I hope).

 

I just put my springs in the other day ... The front bolt I made as tight as I could ....

The shackle nuts I tighted to make them look like the originals ... the bushings were compressed down to about 1/4 inch or so on each side ...