Hi! (And sorry, this is going to be a long one!). I am building a 302 for my Maverick and would like some help in choosing a cam. I already have one in my hands (242/246, .602/.608 solid roller) but i think it's going to be too big for my little 302! It seemed like that was the general consensus on here as well. So before i get any further on my engine, i'm going to switch cams. I know some of you have programs out there that could possibly help my decision Here's what i've got: 302 +.040 TFS Track heat heads, ported (porter estimates ~275i 210e @.600 flow, but is still working on them) 11:1 compression dome top forged pistons 4340 rods/crank Dual plane Edel. Performer RPM air-gap (we're going to flow my heads and intake tomorrow, if the intake can't keep up i'll go to a single-plane). Headers/full exhaust/780 cfm dbl. pumper/5 speed/3.55 posi Considerations: I live at 5700ft. elevation, and drive this car nearly every day. My goal for this motor is to trap at around 115mph here if possible (was trapping at 103 with 230 rwhp uncorrected). I'm thinking a cam with about .575 lift ought to be right, but i don't know what kind of duration, etc? I've already got solid roller lifters and i'd like to keep those. And yes, i'm probably crazy Thanks for any help anyone can offer PS--my engine builder has been telling me to get a cam button and a ...umm...i forgot the name. He said they are required to switch to a roller cam to keep the cam from walking--but so far i've only been able to find them for Chevies (and he's a chevy guy, so i'm wondering if they even make them for fords). Can anyone correct me or point me in the right direction?
Not sure about a button, but they make a thrust plate with a torrington bearing in it that seems pretty trick. As far as the camshaft goes, the one you have is pretty big, but at your elevation, you'll need a lot to make your goal. Driving it every day will suck, especially with 3.55 gears. How much tire are you running?
fords don't need cam buttons since the thrust plate, bolt and timing gear positively locate the cam from front to back movement. i think you will need more gear, even with a stick shift. maybe 4.11 or higher and go to the tallest tire you can fit for the street. slightly shorter track tire if possible. you didn't say what size rear. with this engine and a manual you really should have a 9" rear with aftermarket axles; there is more impact with a stick than an automatic. also has much better gear selection. given any thought to a stroker kit? it would help you reach your goal. there really is no substitute for cubic inches (except maybe a blower).
That's one freakin' radical 302 for the street. Maybe a Comp-Cams 280 Magnum with .530 lift and 230deg duration. It'll idle rough and at about 1200 RPM, but that other cam you have is a bit extreme...
I stand by my statement. To run 11s at that elevation you'll need lots of camshaft. Or you can just throw some nitrous at it.
Yup,,, I agree with all of ya's. Takes a lot of cam shaft to run those times, and a light car. Street cars have a problem becoming light enough. But it sounds like fun to me!!! Dan
I realize i'm probably not going to hit my goal of 115mph, especially sticking with a stock-stroke 302, but it's really just a goal and nothing more. According to some power/weight calculators i've found, that would require about 320rwhp at my elevation with my ~2800lb car. I figure that would be close to 400rwhp at sea level, which is about 470 flywheel hp. I've found a couple of 302's on the internet making about 450 at the flywheel using: AFR 185 heads 232/236 .564/.575 Comp cams hydraulic roller 10.6:1, etc. etc.... So, it's not completely unreasonable, but i realize it probably won't happen As for gears i know mine aren't optimal, but it'll be a lot easier to change the gears out when i get it running again than to change the gears and the cam. We flowed my manifold today (Edelbrock Performer RPM Air-gap with light port-matching) and the numbers just aren't going to work out...~230 cfm all the way around. The guy who flowed it was pretty impressed though, he said that's the best he's seen come out of a dual plane that's pretty much untouched. I also think his bench flows about 15cfm low. Sorry to make this so long again, but i've found two cams whose specs i like--any thoughts on these? I'm going to have to get my new one custom-ground so i can change anything i don't like: Cam 1: As above, 232/236 .564/.575 (i think 112ls), Comp Cams Cam 2: 236/248 .574/.595, 112ls TFS Stage 3 (i would probably trim the exhaust down to 242, .585). Also, since i have a manual, would it be a bad idea to go with a 110ls? Any other ideas on a custom cam?
what do the pros say? i mean the phone guys who work at the cam companies. many of them are extremely knowledgeable about their products and should be able to put you in the ballpark for a cam. try for an older sounding guy when you call. they have usually seen a lot more than the newer guys. i'll admit i am partial to lunati and crane for cams. i have had great results from both. i think i used to talk to john at lunati.
You mean you guys aren't the pros here?? I'm definitely going to get some advice from a phone rep, i just wanted to get some input from you all first because you never really know who you're talking to on the phone.
call more than one company and see if there is a consensus of opinion. for instance, if using a factory head most will recommend a dual pattern cam to help the poor exhaust in stock heads. if using good aftermarket heads however, this might not be needed. for optimum performance its important that the flow of the cam meshes well with the flow of the heads and intake, as well as fitting the power range you need for the car. just be very accurate with the info you give them on your combination. if you give them what you think you might end up with and then change later after you get the cam, don't complain about the results.
Tell your engine builder that Ford engines are worlds ahead of chevys, then get your stuff and take it elsewhere! Chevy engines have absolutely nothing holding the camshaft into the block, other than the taper of the camshaft and lifters...which forces the cam rearwards, and need a button that attatches to either the cam sprocket or timing cover to hold a roller camshaft in the block(smart design, huh?? ) Ford engines ALL have a cam retainer plate which keeps it from walking back and forth. If an engine builder doesn't know the difference, IMO he's not much of an engine builder. Dad has a REALLY good camshaft in his Fairmont that works excellent with the heads he has, yet is VERY easy on valvetrain parts. It's a Lunati solid roller, 246-256 @ .050" .518-.541" lift 110 LSA. It does an EXCELLENT job with heavier cars with the great low-end torque, pulls hard from 3000-6800+ and like I mentioned, is very easy on valvetrain parts. It may not be the biggest, meanest camshaft out there, but it gets the job done....better than most. His motor is very similar to yours, except his is about 10.8:1 compression HEAVY cast pistons and Edelbrock RPM heads. Same intake, stock rods, stock crank. The cam part # is 50616.
