2 questions. 1. recently my '74 mav (302) has been sucking up a bunch more gas then normal, and its going thru almost the exact same patterns, to work, to the store, city traffic, ect... Nothings changed except the needle hehe I was thinking because its been hot here now and the temp is makign the engine hot and burning more fuel? Any suggestions? (and no leaks...) (also what gas should i be using? i just you regular) 2. Oddly enough, it was graduation night, so i headed out in my mav to the city where graduation was held, i had to cricle around a few times before the parkin deck opened for us... while in the stop and go traffic my temp sky rocketed up past 220 and i immediatly found a parkin lot and shut it off there, were obviosuly radiator fluid came pooring out of the top off spout and the car wouldnt turn back on. Anyone know whats the problem? I forget the type but i have a fan on each side of the radiator and its wired straight to the battery and a switch. I dont think its the fans. Is it possible my radiator is just too old and needs to be replaced?!?! Thanks so much for any help.
I don't know all that much but I think the overheating could be a stuck thermostat. dunno though just a thought
do you have a fan shroud? they do make a difference. pop in a new thermostat. they are dirt cheap. good luck
ut oh. Thanks for the thermostat, idea.... but now i have a problem thats 100 times worse. While removing the peace that hodl the thermostat in place, the old ass bolt snapped. now i have to get it out, ahhhhhhhh. this is gonna suck. so for now, my car is useless :-\
they are the same from when i got the car. i never changed thermostat. well lets just say, they were tight. im 165 lbs and my whole body wait leaning on wrench finally barely get first loose, and second just looked corroded from the start. u have any idea how i can get the other peice of the bolt out?
Broken bolt .... IF you don't have the other bolt out yet, try shooting some penetrating oil around the head. Let it soak for a few hours. Use a good 6 point box wrench, or ratchet if you have to. (Use a 3/8 drive ratchet so that you won't break this one off). If you get it out and the t-stat housing off, the remains of the broken bolt may be out enough to remove easily. If you can see enough threads, and the bolt is not twisted like chewing gum, try running a nut down on it. If you can get a second nut on it to lock it down, try removing the bolt by using the wrench/ratchet. You can remove the bolt turning the first nut with a wrench. Be sure to shoot some of that penetrating oil on it and let it soak first. If you have a bolt that is broken off inside of the intake and you can't get nuts or a pair of vice grips on it, after soaking it, you are going to have to tap it. You will need someone who has done this to help you if you have never done this. It isn't easy. A word of advice for the future, always soak bolts and nuts with a good quality penetrating oil before attempting removal. Also, rusty bolts, especially those exposed to rust and antifreeze will be more likely to break. Use small wrenches if possible. Use 3/8 or 1/4 inch drive ratchets. You will feel a bolt twist with these tools long before you will with long whenches, pull handles and 1/2 drive ratchets. Save those for big nuts and bolts. Air wrenches fall into the same category. The pulse that they create in removing nuts and bolts can snap or wring them. Good luck. Seth
yea its broken so i cant see any threads. flush with the engine. What do you mean taping it? And where can i have it done. Any mechanic who has an understadning? thanks. also i can get a picture of the problem if that would help.
Tap or easy out. By tap I mean drill out the center and use a tool called an easy-out. Different folks call it other things. Tap, easeout, easyout etc. And yes most mechanics should be able to do it. It goes in the hole you just drilled and turns the bolt making it come out. Look up some sites on the web, undoubtedly there are some tech sites that talk about broken bolt removal. You didn't say earlier, is it the factory intake or head? I don't remember if you have a V8 or an I-6. If you are dealing with aluminum, be extra careful. It is softer and can easily be torn up. If you are dealing with an intake and it is aluminum, you might want to take it off so that you can chase the threads with a thread tap to clean them up to prevent this from happening again. Good Luck= Seth
thanks alot. i know what you mean by tap, and yes i call it easyout. just misunderstanding of terms i am gonna go buy the tool tommorow and give it a go. but like u said, ill have to remove some stuff so i can have access to drill the bolt. i might goto my favorite mechanic, he is a nice dude and loves my car, he will give me a good price, or hell, might do it for free thanks alot man.
if you've got any part of the bolt sticking out sears makes a tool that will fit over the stud like a socket and you can back it out. comes in a kit, looks almost like a set of sockets.
There is a difference between a tap and an easy out. A easy out is designed with reverse teeth that wil bite in to a hole that is drilled into the center of a broken bolt so that it will get tighter as you unscrew the bolt. A tap is designed to cut threads. Do not use an easy out on a bolt that has been snapped off due to corrosion or one that has bottomed out and snapped while tighting it. You will just break off the easy out and then you have hardened steel to get out. You will have to drill out the bolt and retap the threads. Only other way if there is enough of the old bolt sticking out to get a pair of vise grips on it, is to remove the manifold and heat the area around the bolt till it is glowing dull red and then it will probably come out. (assuming you have a cast iron manifold)
haha thanks for the info now mavoholic. i used the easy out (because NONE of the bolt was showing) so i drilled the hole, stuck the easyout in there, and turned... SNAP! Now i have the easyout tip in there and it aint comming out. The machine shop dude who usually gives me GREAT deals said he recommends new one because it would be $60 just to remove the easyout and retap ect... so my new stealth intake manifold is int he mail as we speka, hopefully i get it soon. but i will be removing the bolt and retapping then selling it, or if anyone wants it now, but like i said the repair costs about $60. Its a edelbrock performer 289.
relic There is a product on the market called "tap-away". I'm not sure what it will do to the aluminum, but it will dissolve the broken easyout overnight. Easyouts always break. I'm not sure why they even call them that. When a bolt is broken flush, here are a few things to try if you're still interrested in fixing it. You have already drilled into the broken bolt I assume? Try taking a punch and giving it a fair (not too hard) smack right in the middle of the bolt straight in, then use a small chisel and try to tap the bolt counterclockwiseand spin it out that way. This works pretty well. If it refuses to turn go to the hardware store and pick up a $20.00 handheld propane torch (you'll want it again one day) heat up the area around the bolt. aluminum expands much quicker than the steel of the bolt so the hole will actually get bigger than the diameter of the bolt. then try to tap the thing out with the chisel again. If all else fails, get some whiskey and a big sledge. heheh
haha thanks for the tips. only thing is, we butchered the bolt trying to get it out the first time, so in order for it to be 100% it needs to be cored then rethreaded and the machine shop can do that... i cant. hehe. But i hear the stealth manifolds are better then the performer 289's anyways? so maybe it was good idea to buy a new one.
