Has anyone used the perma dry fel pro silicone oil pan gasket. It says to install it DRY!!!! Goes against everything I've been taught. Has anyone had success with these. Maybe a little sealer at the pan corners near the end mains?
I learned that installing gaskets dry is the best for me. Seems that once I got it through my thick skull that torque specs are used to keep you from overtightening things, dry gaskets suddenly started working. If you tighten more than spec, or don't clean your surfaces very well, you distort the gaskets and leak. For the oil pans, I have started using those really thick rubber one piece deals. I have installed 2 this past year and so far, so good. They are VERY easy to work with compared to cork and multiple pieces, etc... Dave
I believe it has a a thin inner metal strip of metal thats prevents over tightning(to a degree). They are one piece if I remember right as well. I have installed them dry with no problems on many modern engines. I used a crappy cork gasket on the mav. It seeps just a tad. I would have prefered to use the permadry. Just follow the correct tightening sequences and use proper torque and all should be fine. Lance
ALWAYS install them dry (cork gaskets and silicone gaskets). Cork will expand a little when fluids hit it, which helps them seal up. Silicone will seal well enough without glue or anything. I run a silicone 1-piece gasket on the windsor...dad's got one on the new 347. They're also re-useable which is nice if you freshen 'em up as often as we do.
I also use 1/4in allen studs with flange nuts, except for the four 5/16th end bolts. Makes a bit easier to hold the gasket espedially if you are taking down the pan under the car, and seem's to hold the pan to the gasket a bit more evenly. JMO
