Ok, I have decided to pull the short-block and rebuild the bottom end. Have not done this in a while.. Use to always yse clevite 77 bearings. Still the way to go? Machine shop is pushing the new H series.. Second question, Sealed Power rings still ok? I want to avoid the gapless due to the extra expense and filing issues. Opinions on rings and bearings? Second question: Windage tray? Running mostly street, a few trips down the 1320' but mostly shows etc.. ran low 12's and don't care if I go any faster. Do I install the tray? I am sure I will have more ?'s but hope to get this build, installed and running in two weeks from now.
rebuild Use the bearings you like. He may have a set on the shelf and wants to sell them. Have everything miked in front of you. Then decide what to do. .010/.010 on crank, .010", .020" or .030" overbore with hyper pistons. New standard oil pump with stronger shaft. Windage tray is always good insurance. Also replace the rod bolts and resize the big ends of the rods. Personally new main and head bolts (ARP) is good too. New timing gears and waterpump. Make sure YOU clean the block, crank and rods after any machine work, especially oil galleys to the point it's clean enough to eat off of. I always clean the S$%T out of the block then take it back and have the cam bearings installed. Check the shops work and make sure the oil holes line up. Use brass freeze plugs. Rebalance whole bottom end. 2 weeks, shop may have a different idea, but possible. Reminds me of a movie, "The Money Pit". One last little trick, I put a small mark on the block, crank and a file mark on top of the rods before I take it to the shop. Insures you get YOUR parts back.
If you use hypereutectic pistons be sure to follow mfg recommended ring end gap, my KB's had a top ring end gap recommendation of .030 (drag race gasoline).
Should have explained more... Already runing new forged pistons .030, resized rods, all ARP, melling pump, new alum heads, new true roller. Motor balanced. Just need to refresh the rings and bearings. My question was strictly on what bearings and rings people are putting in..
rebuild Sounds like you don't have enough miles to be a problem. But, Clevite 77 with Seales Power Moly rings.
The standard Clevite 77 (autozone bearings LOL...another story) have always worked for me. They even warranty them for 1 year. I go in once a year and get new, free bearings. Just be sure to check end play after you put in the new main bearings...seems like lately, Clevite mains have had to be filed a bit to achieve the minimum end play. Rod bearings are also Clevite. Just made for Chevy instead of Ford (we use chevy journals on dad's and mine). That said, if you have an aftermarket steel crank, the H series bearings will almost be a must have as most steel cranks now have larger fillets, and the H series bearings have larger radii to accomodate them. You "can" use P series (regular Clevites) on them, but side play between the rods will be real tight, if you can even get both rods on the journal.
I'd rather file a Clevite 77 than those Federal Mogul bearings I had to use on my 390 we built. We had to get the electric belt sander after them at your house. They worked good and I've had no problem with them, but it was a PITA
