Ditching power brakes...

Alright i need to know what ima need to ditch my power brakes.After i take the booster off am i gonna need a different pedal and master cyl?I've already got disc brakes up front and have the summit racing rear disc brake kit to put on this winter.Power brakes work fine but have had them unhooked for awhile and wanna jus take the booster off so its not in the f'n way anymore.

 

I use the Wilwood manual brake part number 260-8555-P

A bit pricey, but it stops on a dime, even with drums out back.

And purdy!

 

Not sure how the booster hooks up. I will keep an ear on this thread to see if you can continue using the master cylinder or if you need to put in a different one. Never worked with power brakes.

 

You can remove it all. Someone here will want to buy it all. I would remove the complete pedal assmebly, the booster, master cylinder, and firewall bracket. Also remove the driver's side shock tower to cowl brace. All of these parts can be readiuly replaced with standard parts, while you can sell all the parts you removed in a package to somebody else. If you can, throw in the factory prop valve to complete the package.

 

Hmmmm. Craig, you really should think about selling Maverick parts. Your brain works like someone who would be a good parts supplier!

 

alright so i have to replace it all i was hopping i could keep using my pedal so i didnt have to change that part but if i have to i have to,and scoop thanks for the part number on the MS i was just about to start a serch for that 1.

 

Mine uses stock pedal and everything. It was a GREAT improvement over O'Reilly master cylinders.

 

do you have a factory power brake car?

 

No, mine was manual from the factory, but I had horrible experiences with buying M/Cs from Autozone and O'Reilly. They were crap quality, and more often than not, didn't even work right out of the box. 2 of 3 that I bought needed to be immediately swapped due to bleeding past the plunger. One worked for a couple years, but only a couple years.

The Wilwood has been flawless now since December 09 and brakes harder and faster than the off-the-shelf ones.

And much purdier, too!

 

How is pedal pressure with the wilwood?

 

Much firmer. Less travel before you start to feel resistance, less travel once resistance starts, and if you mash it, there is no playing around.

There is absolutely no softness or squish.

 

Is there more or less leg effort required?

 

Keeping the power pedal will give your leg a real workout. The manual pedal has much more mechanical advantage due to it's higher ratio. I'm struggling right now with my current disc/drum setup, too much effort even with a manual pedal. Trying some things before I swap out to a power booster setup (which will need to be extremely custom due to valve cover interference).

 

Mine doesnt tire me out. It is just nice to know it will stop when i hit it. It never felt like something that ever got my attention.

 

thats cause you have a manual pedal lol,so all i gotta do is pull the booster and old MC and put on the new wilwood MC and change the lines if needed