200L6 3spd manual to 302 C4 swap I'm just posting for feedback, suggestions, insults, advice, "been there, don't do that", whatever. I preface this with... this was my first motor project/build and it is somewhat amazing that this thing runs and well at that. started as '76 302 block. went 40 over pistons, 10 under crank, reconditiond rods, arp for all rod, main, head bolts. sealed power hyper pistons, sp moly rings, all clevite77 standard series bearings. Yes I plastigaged. standard cloyes chain. align honed, full balance job (crank/rod/piston/rings/flexplate). high volume oil pump. perf harmonic balencer (rated to 6500) felpro gasket set now the toys:evilsmile I HATE those STOCK HEADS, so i threw 'em away roush 180 cyl heads. 1.94 in 1.60 exh (undercut valves) 58cc chamber 180cc intake runner. 1.6:1 aluminum roller rockers (for SB chevy??) new pushrods, guide plates. about 9.5 or 10:1 CR. I ever so lightly hand lapped my valves (was this bad/good? I've heard both) the cam: Sealed Power speed pro #CS-1063R valve lift .458 in / .464 exh duration @ .050 218deg in / 224deg exh power band 2000-6000 the cam is not degreed away from crank position What is the difference/purpose of SAE J604d duration & Duration @ .050 What is the difference/purpose of single/dual pattern cams why don't I know this, I don't know Induction/evac/ignition: 91/92 octane ONLY. she has never drank any thing else with the new motor Edelbrock performer intake & 600cfm edelbrock carb. I recurved a stock distributor (by feel). Jacobs FC1000 ignition/accel supercoil/MSD wires/DEI fiberglass boot insulators(nessecity). full length Summit brand headers,H pipe,Thrush boss turbos on 2" dual exhaust. someday i'd like sidepipes my timing, any opinions?? 10 BTDC base 32 centrifical in by about 2500 (if memory serves) just under 10 degrees Vac Advance Drivetrain: converted to 5 lug disc front/5 lug rearend (both from 76 4dr mav). traction bars. would like to upgrade sway bars TCI streetfighter tranny / torque converter about 2.2k stall in car (now fried due to improper cooling/fluid.) opps I'll be putting same tranny back in anyone have an opinion on converters I currently have about a 2.76:1 rear gear on open 8" diff I would like to get a locker for diff (no spools) and go to 3.5or3.73:1 she'll get up and go though! 100mph in 2nd (5k RPMs), burnouts, etc. Great for downshifts from 2nd to 1st and waxing some little punk in a riceburner or the 'stang his daddy bought for him. comments/suggestions/feedback are welcome and respected hopefully after june I'll have some timeslips to post Quote: "didn't expect THAT did ya" or "Uhh no, I don't think so.... bye...." keep 'er 'tween the lines matt
sounds like a good engine. only thing i'd wonder is if your taking it to the strip, you might be limited by the cam and the 600cfm carb. i have a 540/544 lift cam in mine and 750 double pumper. seems to run pretty steady, but i'm thinking of going back to a 650 to see how that changes my et's. i need better 60" times. good luck and let us know what it runs. also i run about 37 degrees all the time. what rear end gears and tires are you going to use?
basically a good piece of work. your cam is a little on the small side, tho. something up between 220-230 deg at .050 with about .520 lift would wake it up some. 600 cfm carb is big enough for now and probably up to 6500 rpm (people tend to over carb). if you go to a bigger cam, you might want to think about a performer RPM manifold. the duration at .050 figure is the best way to compare cams between manufacturers; its an industry standard whereas the adv duration is sometimes a product of exaggeration. dual pattern cams are to make up for inadequacies on the exhaust side of the cylinder heads (especially factory heads). not as important on good aftermarket heads. i am partial to ATI converters with COAN as a second choice. there are a lot of choices out there and you generally get what you pay for in terms of quality and experience. the stall is a matter of choice and driving plans as well as your cam and induction setup. remember if you put in a bigger cam and/or carb you soften your bottom end torque. also if you install a numerically higher rear gear you will reduce your stall speed. i had a 2100 stall converter on a 3.00 rear gear. put in 4.10 gears and the stall dropped to about 1900 rpm, so when i broke the turbine hub in the converter i moved up to a 10" that stalls about 3100 rpm. took over 2 tenths off the 60' time with no change in mph. lapping in valves is usually a positive thing. was the timing chain set you used for pre 1972 fords? if not, then your cam timing is retarded. degreeing in the cam is always a worthwhile procedure. try more like 34-36 degrees total timing. have fun.
o i thought i forgot something. just gave the car a birthday present. BFG 195/60/14 front 255/60/15 rear. on cragar rims, i posted a pic somewhere. "newbie section i think". want to go to locker diff with 3.73:1 gearing in future timing chain is for '76 block. i think, let me check with my dude at the shop where i got it. if that cam timing is retarded, what then?:confused: i'm a little green in some areas:16suspect will make occasional apperances at track, would like a good showing. but all told general performance is more my goal. looking for fun all the time not just for the 1/4. lots of opertunity 'round here to "play" with riff raff on the street.
you want an early timing set in it which installs the cam "straight up". in either 1972 or 73 ford retarded the camshaft timing by altering the keyway in the crank gear to help with the new emissions laws at the time ( and they also killed the compression ratio). the ideal thing if you are able is to buy one of the double roller timing sets with mutiple keyways in the crank sprocket & degree the cam in . if degreeing the cam is not within the scope of your abilities just install an early timing set, preferably with a steel cam gear instead of one with plastic teeth. degreeing the cam with the engine in the car can be a PITA.
