Looking for a can and stall recommendation.... 351w street strip car. Mostly street. 351w bored 30 over. Flat top forged pistons Performer rpm intake Afr heads ( recommendation here also??? ) Either a pa performance or tci c4. Getting ready to buy that. 9" with 4.10s Thanks
AFR 185's would be an excellent choice for a mid-range torquer with stock stroke. Gobs of torque starting as low as 2,500 and still easily find 425 horses up around 6,000 rpm with the right street/strip cam. This a factory roller block? A comp extreme energy roller around a 282 - 288 spec will carry some rpm while still maintaining nice off-idle torque and some level of civility during cruises. Always try to add compression ratio when adding duration because the more compression that you feed it.. the tamer a cam will seem to get and vacuum will also go up. You know I've said it before and I'll say it again.. why not just cam it up a bit more.. lose the dual plane/at least run a 1-2 inch spacer.. and spin it up to 6,600 - 6,700 rpm to better match those short gears? 475 horses would show up quick with a set of 195's/Vic JR/XE288R on a stock stroke 351. Even 500 if you want to work hard and tweak for that last little bit.
Don't think you're going to need much stall with those gears. 'Specially if you're going to drive it on the highway.
No pro-blemo bud. Forgot to include a stall rec' in there though. Just too much scatterbrained multitasking and my garage has been calling me out more and more lately. lol Just wait'll you see what I got cooking on my new Kasse P38 head project. It's so over the top that Kasse and his head porter are also curious as to the final outcome because they're hoping to pull my heads back in house for some flow testing and observation. Sorry for the off-track "all about me and mine" stuff but I'm overly proud and way stoked for my project now. Still some stuff in my way at the moment.. but I'm checking them off my list every day and closing in fast on a start date. Will text you some bad-ass pic's during the welding and porting process. Ok. So.. unless you're spending all kinds of extra ching to lighten it up.. you'll have tons of weight in that rotating assembly once it's all said and done. With that in mind, I'd be looking at no larger than a 10" converter case in the range of 2,800 - 3,000 stall speed. That'll help with transient throttle response without the larger shift rpm drop associated with really small convertors. IF.. a bit more street duty is in order and you stay a tad bit tamer on the cam and head size for improving streetability?.. move down to around 2,600 - 2,800 stall speeds. Better have some big cheaters.. or decent slicks though. lol Lack of overdrive and those gears will keep that converter in full boogie on the freeway. Better have a decent sized trans fluid cooler though.
For street & occasional strip, more stall with a little less gear is almost always better... Why? With the 4.10 and tight converter the tires have to roll over a few turns before the engine gets up into it's power band... With a higher stall and say 3.70 gear, engine revs to power band all but instantly so puts more torque to the tires sooner...
or.. just keep the rear gear.. cam it up.. and put a 9" converter in it that stalls to around 3,800 rpm and hold the hell on to yer coffee mug. lol
Lol. Thanks guys and groberts looking forward to the pics. This car won't be daily driven any real mileage more of a toy for me and my dad. Maybe 10 miles here and there with a weekend trip to the local track. Mainly want a streetable setup that's manageable with 500hp and built to whip up on some Stang's and camaros. With keeping the 4.10s would a 3500 stall be a good happy medium? Not sure what stall comes in the tci kit it just says 1500 over stock so 25-2800???
TCI stuff is ok for the money but I always build a core so I can control exactly what goes into it. But I've used much of it through the years and still have boxes of it. Hey!.. call me shameless.. but you wanna buy all my hoarded NIB TCI C4 stuff?.. have rebuild kit, 12" +1 above stock converter(maybe the same exact part # you're looking at?)10" 3,000 stall streetfighter.. have a low ratio 1st/2nd gearset too! All case fill stuff, IIRC. I'd have to guess that's just a cheap old +1 above stock street fighter converter and stalls somewhere around 2,400-2,600 rpm depending on the cam/compression you choose. For a real tire scorcher you'll absolutely want no less than a 3,000 stall speed. Remember that a stalls max speed flash only occurs under abrupt/hard throttle and cruising around won't be bad at all with plenty of converter grab under 2,000 rpm for light takeoff and drive-ability. Again with the big trans cooler rec' though. PS. I was planning on freshening my C4 up with these parts.. but now I'm building my car around the drivetrain right from the get go. ROD 6 speed.. engine relocation and the whole 10 yards. Will take me longer(from not having enough consistent work time.. not to mention all the $$$$ not earned yet to pay for it all) but be cheaper in the long run and make me the envy of all my neighbors who can hear it running in a 6 block radius. I'm thinking of a license plate that reads.. SNOTTY. hehe Here's my new block. And my heads. My mod'd version will exceed the roof height of that first pictures "imagined race port". http://www.horsepowermonster.com/2013/jon-kaase-explains-great-cylinder-head-design/
Wow that's pretty sweet man. Out of curiosity what would you want for your c4 stuff? Anything else I would need to buy for the rebuild? I've never been in a trans before but there is a first time for everything lol.
Not really too sure since it just occurred to me while I was responding above. lol I mean I figured I'd be putting it on the market at some point.. just not to a forum member right at this moment. I'll dig up part numbers and whatnot later tonight. Have either the H or R code servo for it too. Valvebody is dirty and could use a cleaning/re-gasket.. but the Fairbanks kit in it was awesome when combined with a extra wide Eagle red band. I use to love doing abrupt hard throttles and then getting out of it right before the shift. Squaaawwwwkkk.
No rush but if you get time think of a number and what all would be included and send me a text or a pm on here. Thanks groberts.
Tough finding the time to dig through storage right now but here's what I've gathered so far. TCI # 451500 TCI #529500 I "think".. it's an Art Carr C4 wide ratio gearset. Could also be a discontinued TCI part # too though. Looks identical to a Broader performance wide ratio setup but I do know it's a 2.75/1.54 1st and 2nd gear ratio setup. It's nearing 15 years old now and still in the bag without rust. Depending on where you end up with it all.. wide ratio might be going in the wrong direction for your motor/gear spec's. You could however drop some ratio out of the rear gear and still maintain similar or even slightly better acceleration in 1st and 2nd with this kit. Basically the less low/mid range torque you end up with.. the better the likelihood that a wide ratio setup will improve things with the added gear multiplication through the first 2 gears. Otherwise.. in peakier motors and/or heavier cars.. a wide ratio 3 speed typically mean more rpm drop, especially going into 3rd and can actually hurt ET in some cases. I love em' because they work great on mild to moderate build street engines while still keeping a decent rear street gear. A 3.25 - 3.73 rear gear loves these setups.
