I no i have 24/24 spline on the trans. Does anybody no what this means? A c6ap-7d027-c I think it is a 64-66 cruise o matic c4 is this correct. Went to istall today and i need to get another converter the one i have is around 11.5 and i need a 10.5 The main thing is i want to make sure i get the right one.
If it is a cruisamatic then put it on the side and get a 70 and up C4. the cruisematic wont hold up as well as the later C4's. A friend went threw 2 rebuilds on his cruisematic b4 he used a later C4. they won't hold up to anything other than stock engine. Jmo
Well $hit, my motor is built alittle small cam, 600 holley, air gap intake and fresh heads and block. I wonder if i should forget this trans and get another? I gave 300.00 for it and its suppose to have been a fresh rebuild. Is there anything to do to make it stronger?
Mavmike, There s a lot that you can do to make it stronger but the biggest limiting factor is that it is an early case. That will limit what mods can be made to the valve body. You may have a hard time finding input shafts because all the early C4s have 24 x 24 spline input shafts. This limits your choices of converters because all the 70 and later converters use a 26 spline input shaft. You can change the pump, stator support, direct clutch drum and input shaft to convert it to the late style converter but there is nothing you can do about the valve body to adapt it to the later style - the passages are different in them. Just to be sure of what you have look to the right of the FORD logo by the shift lever on the case. There are two circles there and three numbers (two in one circle and one in the other) that will stand out - these are your date codes - It tells you when the C4 was built. Let me know what they are and I can tell you what you have. You might also tell me a bit more about your engine so I can guess at the HP it makes and then I can tell you what you can change to make it last in your application.
As far as the motor....... b303 cam stock bore new rings new bearings e7heads (ported some) new valve spring to match cam 3 angle valve job 600 holley carb perfessional products air gap intake headman longtube headers new timing set I think that is it. I will check the trans today after work.
Paul, Just looked at the 2 circles. Man they are wore pretty bad. Im guessing the circle closest to the logo is a 25 or 26 and the other is a 6 h. Underneath that is more numbers. (0s0p-7008-a). Im not sure on this, that is what it looks like to me. I did buy a converter today, 24 spline 10.5 bolt circle. It seems to fit good. Im kinda concerned the starter seems real close to the flywheel to me. Ive rotated the starter away as much as the through holes in the starter would allow me. The flywheel i bought was 157 50oz
6th of February 1966 is the build date. It could be the last of the green dot cruis-omatic or the first of the select shift. If you start out in the second position and it shifts to third then you know it is a "Green Dot" (dual range Cruis-O-Matic) C4. If it starts in second and stays there then it is a "Select-shift". The more desireable is the select-shift. You can swap the valve body with a 67-69 (if it is select shift) and use a TransGo 47-2 valve body kit and it will be the best thing you could do for the early C4. Adding a big (20-30000 lb rating) cooler in line with your radiator cooler will make it as close to perfect as it will likely get. You could invest a lot of money into adding clutches and swapping out some of the internals but for your current application it would not give you much. It should hold up well with 300 - 350 HP engine for the next 20 years with proper maintenance and use. The harder you push it the less time it will last. Note - I recommend the cooler - no mater what you have - and if you plan to "get on it" very often I recommend the valve body and shift kit up-grade. Other than that use it until it fails and get a later model - 1972 or later - to fit into the car next time.
