Well, I've pulled all my electrical lines and unhooked almost all the fluid lines. The driveshaft has been pulled and the transmission has been drained. I got access to my friend's dad's crane and engine stand, I can have them as long as I want. After consulting my shop manual, I'm wondering how most people go about this. 1. Do you remove the exhaust manifolds to access the engine mounts? 2. Do you unbolt the mounts from the frame, or is it easier to unbolt the engine from the mounts? 3. Would it be easier to take the engine and tranny out in one shot, or take them out seperately? 4. I am planning on using a plate that bolts to the intake manifold to pull the engine, it came with the crane, is this a good choice? Should I thread into the block instead? Thanks in advance.
1. You can remove the exhaust manifolds, but usually just unbolt at the donuts. Then again, if this is your first time removing an engine. You might just want to get ALL the exhaust out of the way. 2. Remove the bolt that goes thru the motor mount. This will be a long bolt and runs horizontal. It has a nut on the other end. 3. I always take the engine and trans out at the same time. Just the way I do it. To me it is just easier and it gets everything out together where you can seperate it if you want in a more comfortable position. 4. I never have used one of those plates on the intake. I always seem to use some bolt hole in the block somewhere. I also use a second safety chain, I had a bolt break once and the engine crushed my radiator support. Good thing about the whole thing, nobody was hurt and the radiator support straightened out real well. Hope I didnt lead you wrong in anyway and hope this helps. I am sure others will offer they good advice as well. Dan
xpsnake, make sure you remove the radiator before trying to get the engine out. also remove the fan and alternator and any other accossories. i always remove the exhaust manifolds as this allows quite a bit of room to move the engine around. i, too, remove the engine and tranny at the same time. i remove the tranny crossmember as this allows you to lift up on the engine and the tranny will drop towards the ground. i also put a plastic lunch type bag on the rear of the tranny with duct tape to stop any fluid thats still in the tranny from leaking out the rear. i've pulled the motor and tranny both ways 1. chain to the block and 2. manifold plate. either way make sure you use the right bolts. i asked my engine builder and he said he puts them in with the plate all the time (engine and tranny). good luck.
Both Dan and Don give good advice. A little trick I use when removing the engine and trans together is to raise the rear of the car up about 8 inches either with jackstands or wooden blocks under the tires. The reason for this is since you can't lift the engine/trans straight up and out, raising the rear end slightly makes for less of an angle so you don't have to fight with it. As you remove the engine, you'll want to jack it about 1-2 inches at a time and pull back on the crane as you go. They sell those fancy engine leveling things you hook on your crane but I've always had good luck with this method. Sam
Since it sounds like your first time, I've got some advice that may seem too simple, but trust me, it can save you alot of trouble.As was mentioned, definitely remove the radiator and fann and accessories. But also check, double check, then recheck to make sure EVERYTHING that needs to be unhooked is unhooked. It's amazing how easy it is to overlook things, especially things that may be obscured from immediate vision. Shift linkage, tranny lines, power steering pump, forgotten wires or guage lines are just a few that can easily be overlooked. Check all this before you pull the engine, it may take a few more minutes, but it beats rounding up more parts because of an oversight. Oh yeah, and I've recently discovered that it's alot easier to remember everything if you wait until after the engine is safely out of the car before you get into the second six pack.
Just a bit more on the subject from experience. Be prepared to make a mess, no matter how well things are drained, always seems to be some left in the block or tranny. I also use the baggy on the tailshaft, but sometimes gets torn off when lifting it out. Also use grade five bolts in the lifting plate for safety and make sure the crane is level and easy to move around. Some 4x4 pieces of wood will help when setting the engine down on the floor. I have a large metal table I set the engine on and then take out the converter bolts or better yet take them out before pulling the assy out of the car. Then on the ground take out the bell housing bolts and starter, remove the trans and converter as one unit. I use a "L" bracket bolted to the bell to hold the converter in while moving the trans around or putting on the bench. Still about three qts of fluid in the converter unless it has a drain plug on it too. Remove the flex plate and put the engine on the stand. Be sure and keep all the nuts bolts etc. in a container so you can find them on installation. I bet once you get this one done you will not hesitate to do it again. However installation can be a bit more difficult to line stuff up, but I know you can do it. Have fun and be safe always.
I really appreciate all the info, advice, and good spirits! I have already removed my hood, outer fenders, condensor, radiator, and fan. Tomorrow I'll be taking out the carb, transmission linkages, and the few lines I do have left. The lift I am borrowing does have a leveler on it, so that should help too. Great info everybody, I'm taking lots of pictures and notes so in the future I can be as helpful as you guys have been to me. Also, As I understand it, I will not need to loose the shock hoops to get this baby out?
the shocks are not in the way at all. it's really easy to get the bolts mixed up. get yourself a box of plastic baggys and mark on them what the bolts are for. also as was stated be prepared for a mess. i find the cheapest and easiest oil control is a bag of kitty litter. i keep a 5 gallon bucket of it in the garage.
I 2nd what Don said. I use sandwhich bags and label every nut and bolt. I had a guy make fun of me once for doing this, luckily he was there when I started putting everything back together and it really surprised him how "organized" it seems. Just the simple thing like trying to track down the bolts for the fan.,,,,,,hey man, its in the bag!
Just my opinion on those manifold plates, but I don't trust all that weight suspended by 4 small studs. The only strength there, is the threads themselves. If your manifold is aluminum, that's even scarier in my opinion. When you put a bolt through the side of the block, your depending on the shear strength of the bolt, which is quite high.
What mavaholic said when I pulled my 250 I used the head bolts , when I pulled my 302 I used the long intake manifold to head bolts and some bolt holes in the front of the heads
