The 75 Comet a/c needs some work, the compressor had a big hole in it. What does everyone do to these? I have another compressor, but do I need to convert to 134A? Or just leave it stock? As you can tell, I'm not an a/c specialist. My Maverick is a non-a/c car, but my Daughter's Comet has it, so I figure she might want it. Well, I never figured she would want it for an everyday car, I was wrong there, she says she doesn't care if the a/c works either, but she may like it!
i had all the stuff under the hood replaced with "late model" stuff.(condenser, compressor,new lines, evaporator.. that way all my controls and ducts work like factory. $1,600 in Atl. Ga. any "street rod" ac shop can do it...frank...
At least get a Sandon compressor. They are way lighter and dont rob near as much power. They make kits for Mustangs that will fit our cars. I'd keep R12. Works much better than 134A when sitting at stop lights.
???????????????????? Have you looked at the price of R12 lately? Around here it goes for $85 to $90 a pound and will not be around much longer. R143a is $15 a pound. You do the math. My question is why change all the stuff on your car to modern style compressor, evap, etc... and not go with R134a? Convert it to R134a, If it is done the correct way you will never know the difference. I work with A/C every day and believe me you can get R134a just as cold as R12 while moving. (not at a stop light) That is because R134a does not condense (revert back to liquid form) as well as R12. If you have a good condenser and put a electric fan on it you will have no problems with the system. Just to let you know how it works, I did a conversion 3 days ago with all newer model stuff and got 34 deg at the vents at 60 MPH on recerc and fan on high. I have never been able to do that with an R12 system. Step into the 21st centery and go with the R134a.
Fordmaster gives good advice. I have done many a/c conversions from R-12. I have no problem with R134a. Just have to realize that R134a is actually more efficient. Only way to go in my opinion. Dan
i like the old R-12 in my opinion its a hell of a lot colder, ive lived here in phoenix my whole life, i had two older vehicles with R-12 and my god it would freeze you out, these newer vehicles you can leave blasting all day long and its not very cold...just my 2 cents!!
AC systems that are designed for 134A work extremely well. Converted systems do not. THey work good at higher RPMs but at idle and slow speeds it will not be cold air blowing out the vents, cool, but not cold. Yes it is expensive but worth the price.
Thanks for all the info....Next, what does one do for a 71 Grabber that did not have a/c? Kind of want it on mine too.
Best bet is to contact places like Vintage Air and see what they have that might fit. www.vintageair.com
Actually, R-134a is less efficient. You don't use as much in your R-12 system when you do a conversion, but it does not transport heat from the interior of your car to the outside as well...and in most conversions you will notice that the A/C will not work as well when it is really hot or when there is less airflow over the condenser (like sitting at lights) Mavaholic is right...if the system is designed to use R-134a, it will work pretty well...systems converted from R-12 will have varying results. One thing that helps is replacing the factory condenser with a parallel flow one...the difference is that stock condensers have a tube that goes thru the fins that snakes back and forth..parallel flow ones are all connected at each end. They are supposed to be more efficient. For sure it is more convenient to go to the local auto parts store and pick up some R-134a, but I wanted my A/C to work at a maximum level. I like when it works well at stoplights. I decided to take the online test to get my 609 certification so I could buy R-12. You can still get R-12 on Ebay for anywhere from about $15-$25 a can. Most of these guys will want a copy of your 609 cert. card. I can't remember the website where I took the test, but it cost me something like $30. I also picked up an old refrigerant recycling machine so I could suck out the R-12 if I ever need to crack open the system. I am prepared to keep my R-12 for years to come... The bottom line is that R-12 = hassle, but works better than R-134a in certain circumstances...and if you don't do the conversion properly the R-134a will be pretty disappointing. My 2½ cents.
Wow, I guess I'm missing something. I have several cars that have been converted to 134a and I haven't had any problems. Yesterday it was hot and humid with a 105 heat index and the converted system worked excellent.
I converted an 86 chevy truck yesterday (108 degrees 20% humidity) and it overheated after 10 miles on the highway. I converted a 90 dodge truck today (104 degrees 18% humidity) and it blew 45 degrees out of the vents at idle and the engine temp was around 210 degrees. Point is that you just don't know whats going to happen in a conversion until you do it. Rule of thumb tho, Older systems like our cars (with expansion vavle, also like dodge and most jap stuff) respond very well to change overs. orafice vehicles (newer Fords, chevys) don't tend to respond as well. A trick I learned from an old AC tech....Plug the gap between the radiator and the condenser with camper shell tape so ALL the air the fan moves goes thru the condenser and it could be worth as much as 5 degrees at the vents. I've used this plenty of times and it does work....even at a stop light.
I have ac taped the low side lines also and found that to help for a couple of my conversions. The one thing that I have also stressed to my customers- "Get tinted"(when they don't have any). It really does help.
I am just finishing up installing factory a/c in a non air 71 grabber ( factory under the dash ouly ) under the hood is all new 5.0 comperssor , hoses , dryer , 4 pass comdensor , expansion valve should have it finish this weekend using R134 will know how will it works thx jay
