well i was cranking on them, put some heat on them and wont budge? then if i just wrench the one side it'll spin inside the bushing..should i just try more heat and a longer bar to crack them loose..? not sure if anyone's had an issue taking them off before. The thing is, they are not really rusted at all. I would really like to replace the bushings and have them powder coated since they've been hanging from my car for like 2 month. ever had a problem taking yours off?
What I do to get them off: 1. Take a wire wheel and clean off all the threads the best you can. 2. Spray the threads with PB blaster and let soak for a day 3. Next day, spray again with PB blaster then remove the nut. Works everytime for me.
The inner sleeves are two part and no doubt rusted together, mine weren't really rusty and refused to budge(both my nuts were free).. What I did was peel the lip of the inner sleeve back so the outer retainer(large washer) and bushing would slip over it, then just pulled them out... The front end kit came with all new components so I wasn't worried about reusing anything but the rods... .
X-2 "if i just wrench the one side it'll spin inside the bushing" ...put a bolt back in the other end to hold it...
am going to try what craig said....since he's taken about 972.5 of these cars apart and i stated that because its not "frozen" to the bushing. i couldn't crack either bolt with my brother holding a side, wouldn't budge & we aint small guys
You need to have the other end of the rod still attached to the lower control arm. I use an air impact, but you can also use a breaker bar/socket.
that may be why...i still got my old control arms, ill throw them on this weekend and rattle the rods off! thanks for that tip.
Once you get the nut off....be very careful puling the strut rod out. The threads are very fine and they "nick" very easily.
I have found over the years that a strut rod is much easier to replace than save. They only cost about $40 each and when I rebuild a front end I like knowing all major parts are new. 68-73 Mustang struts are a direct bolt in to the Maverick.
I remember having to do this exact thing to get mine off. I used a 1/2 inch breaker bar and remember that the nut fought me all of the way off
The strut rod is made of tempered steel. Do not use heat, it will make them brittle and they could snap in two next time they get stressed. Also the hammering of the impact wrench could wipe the threads off. You could cut the nut off using a cut-off wheel and use a chisel to finish spreading the cut if you want to save the strut rod. Personally, I'd buy new ones if they're in that kind of shape where a little BP Blaster and 1/2" drive breaker-bar can't get them off.
i finally finished up my engine bay wiring tonight, so probably sunday ill throw on the arms and if i cant just rattle them off, they will be cut & ill order some new ones.
Do they have factory loc-title on them? Red is what was on them.. I used some move it and cleaned threads, put the LCA's on. impact wouldn't move it but a nice big breaker bar cracked it and it came right off nice and easy, time for blasting and coating
