I'm going with a 302 roller motor... My cam choice is a ford racing E-303 it has a 498" lift with 110* lobe seperation.... What do you think of this cam ? I will use a 600cfm Holley and edlebrock proformer302 intake with headman long tube headers with a Mr. gasket electric fuel pump... Also my t-5 trans... ADVICE is welcome...
I would call a...Cam company...and ask what cam they recommend. then see how close your cam specs are to their specs...
If you already have the E cam, run it. If you are buying a new cam, my opinion is there are better choices.
Stock h.o. cam with 1.7 rockers. It'll give great drivability and make good power, especially if you have stock heads.
Nothing at all wrong with the E cam. I would however change the intake to an RPM or any other highrise dual plane to compliment the cam. Make sure your distributor has a steel cam gear.
It's a rebuilt 5.0 year between 93/96 don't know for sure, It's a off the shelf long block from a machine shop/engine builder... They will pull one off the shelf and give me more details today... What heads ? whatever is stock for it... I did tell them no gt-p heads... The price is $1550.00 plus the price of the cam change... It will be a street driven car... As for the add on parts I'm going to use the parts off my old engine for budget reasons,except for the dizzy I'm buying a pertronix billet dizzy with the proper gear...
Make sure it doens't have E6SE heads either. Look at the fornt corner of the passenger side head, next to the valve cover. There you will find a letter cast, if there's an "S" then they're E6SE heads, "T" will be E7TE heads (these are keepers) GT40 heads have "GT" cast here. The "P" heads I think have either GTP or P in this location. If it has E7TE heads ask them about grinding the Thermactor bumps out of the exhaust ports, or just buy a good carbide porting bit and do it yourself. All you'll need is the bit, a drill and a good shop vac to remove the filings out of the port. And about a half hour to an hour's time. If there are no letters cast in this location, ask for another engine, it will have earlier heads that you may not want, like the 77-85 70 cc chambered heads.
Though the P heads may have header fitment issues, they are far better than E7& & light years ahead of the E6... The E6 also use 3/4" reach spark plugs so are easy to tell if the engine is in the car and still has accessories hanging ion it...
I'm going to change directions with my engine... After looking at my budget and all the parts I will have to swap that I already bought, I'm going to stick to a non roller 302 28oz short block... Getting a 30 over short block and using my 289 heads I already own,swapping over everything from my old engine and adding the comp 268H cam I talked about in another thread... $725 bucks for the short block $199 for the cam and $159 bucks for a set of scorpion roller rockers... Total= $1083.00 Thanks for all the advice, I love all the lessons I learn from this forum....
That will be a solid cam for what you are looking to do,hopefully they are 65 289 hds,as they are the better ones.
yep. early 66 heads are good too. Just look for the slotted pushrod slots and you're golden. Even with early 66 and prior heads.. I'd think about cutting them a good .040 to pump up that lower compression shortblock a bit more. Then get rid of those horrid exhaust bumps and add a hi-rise dual plane topped with a 600cfm carb and you're ready to have some fun in any lighter chassis.
