Ok, I admit that I know less then most about cars and engines, so I have a question. I am looking into a maverick in my area that has a rebuilt 302 .060 over. I just wanted to know what the ".060 over" meant exactly. Any and all information would be greatly appriciated!! THANKS!
The cylinders have been bored over 60 thousandsth of an inch. This guy has rebuilt the engine, and while doing it, expanded the cylinder size by machining it larger. This will increase your cubic inches, a bit. But not too much. Check into what else he added to the engine, since he may have added some parts that would significantly increase the horsepower.
.060 refers to the amount that the cylinders have been bored out. 60 thousandths of an inch. When an engine is rebuilt, the bores are checked for wear and will often need to be bored out slightly to bring them back into even and straight condition. Oversized pistons and rings are made to fit the new bore size. Common bores are .010, .020, .030 thousandths over stock, which in a 302 is 4.00". What you are saying is the bore on that engine has been enlarged to 4.060". The castings on an older 302 are too thin to safely bore out to .060, in my opinion. I do not believe that it is a safe thing to do. You are looking for trouble with that much meat cut out of that casting. I do not know about later model 5.0 blocks and how far they can be bored.
So is it unwise to purchase if the 302 was bored out that much? It is in great shape and the motor looks REALLY clean. If I got it I wouldnt have the money to get anything changed out on it. I dont want the purchase if it is going to be that unsafe.
Please don't take me the wrong way - it may be fine bored .060 over and there will never be a problem. I PERSONALLY do not like any V8 that is bored alot. In fact, Ford service did not authorize anything over .030 if I remember right. Maybe others can elaborate on their expirences with large boring. I hate to fix broken stuff, so tend to err on cautions side when it comes to removing strength from the engines casting. Also, what year is this engine? If it is newer, it may be perfectly fine. I do not know much about the modern roller blocks.
Nada: Just understand, there are no rebuilds left on a .060" over 302. This is the absolute max. In fact piston mfg's don't make pistons for the small block Ford any larger than this. Ford recommends no more than .030 on late 5.0 blocks (via Ford Racing Performance Parts...) Though we drag racers are sometimes known for pushing the envelope, especially since we drive short distances, and sometimes heads up at that. Most likely has the older model 302 block.. But not a lock though, hey mines has a late 5.0 block.... I will let you make your own decision whether to buy or not... Raymond
Can you guys give some info. on what could happen to a 302 that had been borded that much? I mean would it be serious to the driver, or would it just be harmful to the car? This is a good topic I think people new to engines (like myself) should really know about.
Boring a 302 .060 over I agree with the previous post as I would be cautious about a 302 that had been bored that much. As he said, if you ever wear this one to the point of a needed rebuild, that is it for this block. Problems with that oversize bore COULD be, not definitely will be: 1-Overheating problems-your cylinders are now closer to the water jackets. 2-IF the engine has any performance upgrades, ex. higher than stock compression, high lift cam, etc. or is going to see any spirited driving, you are now using a weaker than original base to work from since you have less distance between cylinders and all of the water passages in the block. Personally, I would not want a small block bored beyond .030. .040 is the absolute max that I would want. Besides, bare stock blocks are too cheap. Good luck- Seth
If the car is not going to be abused, I wouldnt worry about the .60 over. Yes, you will not be able to rebuild the top end again, but then, a rebuild engine should last you for many years anyway. I think the biggest problem would be heat. If the engine is basically stock, again, it shouldnt be a problem for normal driving. But if the compression was raised over stock, it could combine and cause heating problems. I would see if the guy is willing to let you drive it around in traffic for a few hours, hopefully on a very warm day, just to see if there are over heating issues. Since you stated you dont know a whole lot about motors, I would guess you are not going to try to hop this one up. Even if you do want to build something hi performance, I'd buy this car, obtain a new block, and build the new block as funds are available. Once the new motor is done, just swap it out. So if its a nice car, that runs great, and is at a good price, buy it!!!
Agree with Mavaholic, have run many .060 blocks, and with good radiator and other cooling parts, should have no troubles. Rebuilds are still available by sleeving the cylinders but the cost would probably deter most. The early 302 blocks are almost impossable to find because China has driven up the price of scrap iron to the point that most salvage yards are crushing all the early steel laden cars. This is a real challenge to us who like these old cars and try to find parts etc. for our projects. It is my understanding that the early blocks have a better nickel content in their castings than the later 5.0's, but this may only affect those in the racing business. For street use I would not be afraid of the .060 engine and the price seems good, if the rebuild was done correctly and good parts used such as pistons and rings etc. Go for it, just remember that nothing is indestructable, depending on how it is driven and maintained.
i'd agree that the condition of the car and the price would be major considerations for buying the car. if you can drive it for a while and it runs good and dosen't heat up go for it. remembering that the engine can not be rebuilt without a lot of money. however ford does make some nice crate engines when you need one that have a warranty with them.
I agree with all of the above. Everyone of these guys have stated facts. In the end, if the purchase price is reasonable, and it is the car you want, buy it. Any old car is probably going to need some reconditioning somewhere. Dan
One of my buddies with a '66 Mustang bored his 289 060 over and he's had nothing but cooling problems ever since. Even with an auxillary electric fan added. I suppose he could get one of those $500 Griffin aluminum radiators for it, but he just wants to build a 302 for it instead. As a rule of thumb, 040 over is max for these engines. Sure, some blocks (such as Mexican blocks) are thicker, but is it really worth the gamble?...
Mine's .060 over and hasn't blown up yet (coming up on 3 years). gets warm in stop and go on hot days, but I ran out of money before I could buy a decent radiator. Aluminum heads and a higher volume water pump help.
Thanks courier, that helps. I could tell that it had the original radiator in it. Out of the bigger radiator, aluminum heads, and higher volume water pump, what should be the order that I get these in if it starts to have cooling problems? For me, I would go with the cheapest part and work my way up, but is there one thing more important then the other if this happens?