Explorer Brake Question(s)

Discussion in 'Technical' started by RASelkirk, Jul 4, 2013.

  1. RASelkirk

    RASelkirk Retired!

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    Sonic Blue '72 w/LS-1, 200R4, 9" w/3.50
    Hi All,

    Got a good deal on a complete Explorer brake package for the 9" in my Rambler project. Since I'm recovering from a torn bicep muscle, I'm limited to light duty stuff like cleaning and painting small parts. So far, I'm only working on one "side" so the other is intact for visualizing reassembly. I have it completely disassembled and the cast knuckle part is stamped with an "R" but the little E-brake arm that moves the shoes has an "L" stamped on it. I see nothing on the stamped dust shield or caliper.


    • Are these parts marked "L" and "R" and if so, where?
    • Are the calipers mounted at 2 o'clock or 5 o'clock?
    • Is the two-piece E-brake arm that actuates the shoes supposed to pivot in the middle or is it solid?
    • Anyone know off-hand, the dims for the required spacers for use on a 9"?
    TIA!
     
  2. Bryant

    Bryant forgot more than learned

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    that should work
     
    Last edited: Jul 4, 2013
  3. Mavman72

    Mavman72 Gone backwards but lookin' forward

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    The caliper brackets are both the same...Ford only made one side and just flipped it around for the left side (same for the calipers)
    Calipers mount at the 2' o'clock position.
    Yes the E brk actuator arm should pivot and move quite freely.
    Sorry cant help you with the spacer dimensions. I believe Frank (71 gold knowes the dims')
     
  4. Bryant

    Bryant forgot more than learned

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    their is 2 different brackets on the explorer kit
     
  5. RASelkirk

    RASelkirk Retired!

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    I haven't gone into the other side yet to see about commonality... The e-brake swivel thingy was so corroded it looked like one piece. After a whack with a hammer, it came apart (not sure if it's supposed to?) so I cleaned the pieces and applied some lube to the pivot. Now waiting on RockAuto for parts...

    So, there are no stampings as to left or right on any pieces?

    I measured all the relevant pieces and find that 0.200" will be the minimum thickness that allows for zero clearance but also has zero "crush". I may make mine a bit thicker. I'm not able to find any aluminum pipe between 3.00" and 3.50" to machine for a perfect fit, so I've decided to use a piece of 1/4" brake tubing and bend an open circle slightly larger than 3.15" so it presses into the void...
     

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