When you set your initial timing, make sure you do it with the vacuum advance hose disconnected (and plugged). Timing should really be set first, and then idle mixture. Adjust idle speed last. A low compression engine likes a wider spark-plug gap, provided that the ignition system is powerful enough to fire it. Higher compression engines (of this era) are fine with a 035" gap. You shouldn't need more than 040".
Put the new plugs in today, gapped for the Pertronix. Its taking forever to get here! Not expected until Tuesday, next time I will pay for shipping. My wife showed me a pic of a FedEx semi all ablaze. I hope my package wasnt on that truck! Got bored tonight and swapped the spring in the dizzy. The lighter spring I removed from the 72 was lighter than the light spring I have currently. Did that make sense? Anyway, it made a big difference even with my old points in it. Keep in mind I havent driven it yet. Radiator should be ready tomorrow. Am swapping my 200 radiator for a 250 radiator and installing a factory shroud. Once thats done, I just need to get my Joe Dirt Fabrication sub frame connectors welded in and buy a set of BF Goodrich radial TAs. Then it will be ready for Carlisle.
Ford used at least 12 different springs inside a distributor. My first one had .047 and .037 springs. The last one had .50 and .30 springs.
So far I like the change. Since Ive done it, Im more comfortable tinkering around in there. I can always try different springs if I need to.
No package came today and radiator shop said the one I dropped off is too rotted. When I told him what I was doing, he said he could move the upper outlet on my original radiator. I reckon thats ok with me. It isnt very old and wasnt too keen on using that old one anyway. Looks llike I will have to wait until next week to do anything.
This is a good post, can anybody recommend a good "spring kit" for the 200 dizzy? I wouldn't mind doing a little testing/tuning myself.
The Pertronix unit came today! Was a nice surprise since I couldnt work on my radiator. Everything looked real simple and straight forward and then I set the module in the dizzy. With the aligning nub in the hole and the one and only screw installed, the mounting plate hit the vacuum advance arm and would not allow proper gapping. Afted looking it over and over and over, I noticed the mounting plate of the module was thicker on the outer edge causing the module to lean in toward the center. Keep in mind Im a carpenter by trade, so I took out my belt sander and flattened it out. I also ground away some outer edge to give a little more clearance for the advance arm. Gapped it, adjusted the timing and fuel mixture with my vacuum guage and went for a ride. I bet I was gone nearly an hour. I took it up every steep hill I could find. It did great! Never ran so smooth in all these years. Even knocked the temp down ten plus degrees. In the words of Phil Robertson....Happy Happy Happy. Pulling my radiator tomorrow to drop off at the shop. Should have that done by Friday, New rubber on Saturday and then to find someone to weld in my sub frame connectors. Getting closer!
Thats exactly what it looked like!!!!!! No worries, am glad to know its a common issue. The instuctioms said no mods needed to be made so I was afraid I did something wrong at first.
the three I have installed in the past were drop in and go... but as with most "aftermarket" stuff...some modding may be needed... I have used this style "points deleting" system in ...VWs, Harleys, 302s, 250s, 170 and more...if needed, would use them again... good to hear it's running great... you need to bring it up this way and let us see/hear it...:Handshake
Im sure it will make its way back down to Ga eventually. Maybe I will plan a trip to Florida next summer. Haven't been down to my Moms place in many years.